Spirited Away

In her newly translated memoir, Sakie Yokota recounts a mother's ultimate nightmare

Tsunahachi

The main branch of a popular tempura chain gets everything right

Year of the beer

Celebrating the highlights of 2008—plus a few brew-fueled countdown parties

Turning Japanese

Get your new year off to a crafty start by learning a traditional hobby

Nakae

Sample horseflesh in all its forms at this old-style Minowa eatery

Last call for Kabukicho

As the iconic Koma Theater goes under the wrecking ball, is this the end of Tokyo’s notorious red-light district?

Ehon no Kuni no Alice

Enjoy a winter wonderland in this new fantasy haven

Mother Esta

Eat healthy and hearty at a relaxing bistro by the water

Annus Scandalous

A year’s worth of food safety scandals has upset Japan’s applecart

Tatsukichi

Enjoy kushiage without the grease at this Shinjuku skewer specialist

The Giving Season

Picking presents is easy with our can't miss gift guide.

Odd Jobs

Foreigners are finding creative ways to make a living in Tokyo