November 17, 2011
DevilCraft
Sinfully good pizza and an ever-changing list of microbrews
By Metropolis
Originally published on metropolis.co.jp on November 2011
Tokyo doesn’t lack for options when it comes to pizza. There’s your big American chains, your Italian pizzerias with their stone ovens, and plenty of Japanese restaurants offering a wafu take on the classic pie. But one thing we didn’t have was a good place for deep-dish, Chicago-style pizza. Until now, that is.
DevilCraft, the creation of three American brew fans, pairs a dynamic list of domestic and imported craft beers with pizzas piled high with toppings that make you go mmmm. Unlike your average brew pub, DevilCraft focuses on the quality and freshness of its food menu, with the sauces and dressings made in-house from scratch, veggies fresh chopped daily and par-baked just before going on the pizza, and a really delicious, just-right mix of sweet and tangy sausage ground by hand.
The deep-dish pizza comes in two sizes, with the smaller one just the right size for one hungry person, though they are happy to pack up any leftovers for you. We were warned that the pizzas could take as long as an hour, but they were ready significantly sooner than that. The crust, the product of months of home experimentation, is a little doughier than I normally like, but it is certainly up to the challenge of holding a good couple centimeters of toppings. They also offer regular pizzas, but only in large.
The Devil Works (¥1,300/¥2,500) is perfect for those who like a little of everything—did I mention that sausage?—and the veggie-packed and feta-slathered Eden (¥1100/¥2200) is paradise for non-meat eaters. You can also build your own, and the staff let us order ingredients on the side for our picky eater.
In addition, there are a handful of appetizers on offer. We tried the spinach and artichoke dip (¥500), which was a salty match for the ales we were drinking, and the feta-loaded Greek salad with a creamy tzatziki dressing (¥800), which feeds two. Watch out, vegetarians, there’s chicken in there, too.
Available in pints and halves, the line up of 15 microbrews on tap changes constantly, with the current list and upcoming brews posted daily on the website. From one day to the next, there are usually three or four new offerings, so enthusiasts will always have something novel to try. The owners are in the process of licensing an onsite brewery as well, so expect DevilCraft’s own creations in mid-2012.
As for the restaurant itself, the first floor is counter seating, with lots of light wood and huge stainless steel taps that feature prominently. It’s a little snug, but the kind of place where it’s easy to talk with the bartender or your neighbors over an after-work drink. The variety of pint glasses from micro-brewers all over the world is a nice touch. Upstairs, there is table seating in a bland but comfortable setting. It fills up fast though, so you’ll want to make a reservation if you have a group.