Originally published on metropolis.co.jp on March 2013

When famed television personality Mino Monta expresses fondness for “yoru no Ginza” (Ginza evenings), he evokes images of whisky sloshed back amid plumes of cigar smoke (perhaps with a gorgeous hostess alongside). That might still hold true in parts of this historic drinkers’ fiefdom, but it is on the wane in others. So glitzy and expensive is the center of Ginza that many with thicker wallets might doubt whether 8-chome even exists. But exist it does, playing host to a new, quirkier and decidedly cheaper experience than was offered here even ten years ago.

☛ Dashing music scholar Kensuke Suzuki was a pioneer of the neighborhood’s regeneration when he opened Goggle (8-11-9 Ginza; open daily, 5pm-2am; http://cafe.webike.net/goggle), a charming 8-chome basement bar that appeals to younger, middle-income professionals. Inside, instead of tattered whisky-stained sofas, are pristine cream-and-black leather seating with a smattering of bar stools. Stretch your limbs of in relative peace under the atmospheric lighting—or request your own karaoke number. For ¥1,000—a snip compared to traditional Ginza prices—sip one of Suzuki’s delectable cocktails. The waist-coated bartender seems to master a new recipe every week, using his fresh-fruit display for freshness and flavor. Drinks are complemented with an impressive food menu via a partnership with upstairs Spanish bar Hola. A selection of ¥200 pinchos, blends smoothly with this laid-back yet classy environment.

☛ One hundred meters up the street from Goggle lay further signs of change. Early March saw the closure of the historic Taru—a macho whisky-lovers’ haven for the past 60 years. Today a different type of customer is nearby, sipping fine wine while peering at the work of budding artists. The café menu at Art For Thought (8-10-4 Ginza, Mon-Sat 11am-2am, closed Sun; http://artforthought.jp) runs from ¥1,100-1,800, with herbal teas and organic juices complemented by healthy salad snacks. The evenings see wines and champagnes make their entrance, with pizzas, pasta, charcuterie, fish, and meat dishes from ¥750-1,600. Artist live shows and special set-piece dinners are often held—see the website for details.

☛ The new Ginza is certainly not short of mock-Spanish or French wine bars, but the pick of the bunch is Ginza de Wain (1-13-13 Ginza, Mon-Sat 5pm-4am, Sun 5-11pm; www.ginzawine.com), a stylish basement bar with arguably the best prices in Ginza. Down the initial steps marvel at a magnificent selection of wine, bottles shining in the uplifting lighting. Choose your label straight from the shelves for as little as ¥850 a glass, and wash down succulent ahijo, fine iberico ham or a cheese platter rich in European variety.

☛ Further proof that the new Ginza takes its food as seriously as its drink can be found in Ostrea (8F Jewel Box Ginza, 8-9-15 Ginza; open Mon-Sat 5-11pm, Sun 5-10pm; www.ostrea.jp), the new oyster bar in town. The wide-ranging menu takes in produce from the mountain-lined waters of Ishikawa-ken, the fishing paradise of Hokkaido, and even Washington State. Perched on the eighth floor of Jewel Box Ginza, and furnished with candlelit tables, Ostrea makes for a fine first date. It’ll cost you about ¥5,000 each, should you go Dutch.