Originally published on metropolis.co.jp on February 2014
The cold months are almost over, but there’s still a nip in the city air. A quick way to ward off the chill is with a stiff, warm drink—something the Japanese have known for centuries. You don’t need to trek to your local izakaya (though that works, too)—getting started is a breeze. So invite some friends over, get the nabe ready and put a pot on the boil. Be sure to use a teacup or mug for your drinks, or the vessels will be too hot to pick up.
Shochu
Warm shochu drinks are probably the easiest to make in a hurry. Heat some water, but not too hot (ideally around 70C). Pour the warm water in a cup, about halfway, and then add the shochu. Play around with the water-to-shochu ratio and see what you like. The single-distilled Honkaku (authentic) shochu is best, ideally from kome (rice) or imo (sweet potatoes). If you pour the shochu in the cup first and then add the warm water, you tend to get more harsh and bitter flavors.
Nihonshu
The notion that only bad or cheap sake is heated is old news. Japanese brewers make sake that should be heated. Once you get used to drinking atsukan (hot sake), it opens the doors to a whole new drinking pleasure. Just be careful: it does go down quite quickly and easily. After the laughter, a bad hangover is not unheard of, so it pays to count your cups.
Heat a pot of water over the stove and in it place a tokkuri (slender ceramic bottle) filled with sake. Aficionados use a pewter cup (or more affordable aluminum one) for warming the beverage. You can also invest in a special thermometer—an okan meter or sake ondokei—so that the drink is not overheated and, most importantly, it reminds you when the sake gets too hot so as not to lose its flavor and alcohol. Eventually you’ll find the temperature you like and warming up the sake becomes much easier.
A good bottle shop will be able to help you pick nihonshu that is ideal for warming up. I usually look for junmaishu or honjozo. Avoid the daiginjo or ginjo grades as their more delicate (and expensive) aromas will be lost.
Hirezake
Up for something a little different? Pick up some dried fugu hire (pufferfish fins), available throughout Tsukiji Market or at well-stocked sake shops, and make some hirezake. It may sound out there, but there’s no fear of poison—just a drink with a little extra kick. Heat the dried fugu fins over a gas flame, put in a cup of warm sake and cover for about a minute. The charred fins will infuse the drink with roasty, marine notes.
Hot Stout
This one is very simple and while it sounds strange, it is a revelation that a sparkling beverage can be heated. Pour some stout in a glass mug, leaving some room at the top of the glass as it will foam up. Add a teaspoon of sugar to the beer and stir lightly to mix. Put in the microwave for about 50 seconds. The warm beverage is reminiscent of coffee with some bitter notes and a rich flavor.
Warm umeshu
The syrupy, sweet umeshu can be warmed up with hot water, like shochu. For a milky treat, try adding some to milk and warm it up in the microwave. Add a splash to some tea for a different kind of cuppa. Mixed two parts wine to one part umeshu, it becomes the perfect East meets West warm cocktail.
Wine
European winter markets often serve up spicy, mulled wine. The aroma of the wine and spice warms up the room and puts everyone in a good mood. Simply heat a bottle of wine—red or white as you like—in a pot. Serve with some sliced oranges and lemons, a generous amount of sugar with a cinnamon stick and some cloves.
Whisky
A splash of whisky in a rich mug of hot chocolate is a nice alternative to dessert.
Until spring comes, these home remedies ought to keep you cozy. You’ll find warm cocktails in bars and izakaya, but making them at home ensures that you can have them any time you feel the chill.
Keeping Tabs
Bar Gen Yamamoto in Azabu-Juban (www.genyamamoto.jp) does a unique warm strawberry drink mixed with sake.
New Kayaba, a men-only bar in Kayabacho (women can go if accompanied by a male host; http://meturl.com/newkayaba) has self-serve hot sake machines—great fun here.
Kanda Shimpachi (www.kanda-shinpachi.com) is famous for its warm sake.
Kirin City (various locations; http://www.kirincity.co.jp/shop/index.html) and Popeye in Ryogoku (www.lares.dti.ne.jp/~ppy/) serve warm beer.
Maruche dix Jours in Aoyama (www.facebook.com/marche.aoyama) boasts warm wine.
Gozouroppu Honten (http://meturl.com/gozohon) in Sangenjaya hots up the shochu (and seafood).
Babel in Yokohama Bay Quarter (http://meturl.com/babelbay) has a “Hot Alcohol Menu” with warmed Amaratto and milk, hot sangria, hot lemonade and more.
The ice skating rink on the roof of Matsuya Ginza serves hot mojitos (but only until Mar 2).
