Originally published on metropolis.co.jp on September 2010

Photo by James Hadfield

With the oppressive swelter of summer now safely behind us, it’s time to sit back and enjoy some quality nihonshu. There’s just one problem: where on earth to start? We asked Maiko Yoshida, manager at the Omotesando Hills branch of Hasegawa Saketen, to recommend a few bottles for the coming months.

1. Azumaichi

Type: Junmai Ginjo
Origin: Saga Prefecture
“Mature umami flavors and a refined scent and aftertaste—this slips down really easily. Refreshing and well-rounded, you can drink it on its own, though it also goes well with boiled vegetables.”
¥1,754 (720ml)

2. Aramasa

Type: “Towazugatari” Yamahai Junmai
Origin: Akita Prefecture
“Expect some fairly complex flavors and a concentrated burst of umami. Some people find it a bit strong when drunk straight, but it’s delicious when warmed. Try it with nimono (simmered food) or niku-jaga.”
¥1,350 (720ml)

3. Yama Otokoyama

Type: Junmai Ginjo
Origin: Yamagata Prefecture
“We have this made especially for us by Otokoyama in Yamagata. It’s another ‘yamahai’ type, but it’s very different to the Aramasa: refreshing and slightly fruity, and you can drink it in a variety of ways—warm, or even from a wine glass. It goes well with blue cheese.”
¥1,470 (720ml)

4. Isojiman

Type: “Nakazumi” Daiginjo
Origin: Shizuoka Prefecture
“Like the Kamoshibito Kuheiji, this is a Hasegawa original. It has a clear, balanced flavor with very little bitterness. I’d recommend drinking it on its own—maybe having a glass just before bed.”
¥2,300 (300ml)

5. Kamoshibito Kuheiji

Type: “Becchu” Junmai Ginjo
Origin: Aichi Prefecture
“This has a fruitiness and clean acidity reminiscent of white wine, and goes well with cheese. It’s perfect for people who aren’t used to drinking nihonshu. Oh, and its box is cute, too.”
¥3,150 (500ml)

3F Omotesando Hills, 4-12-10 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-5785-0833. Open Mon-Sat 11am-9:30pm, Sun & hols 11am-8:30pm. Nearest stn: Omotesando or Meiji-Jingumae. www.hasegawasaketen.com