Originally published on metropolis.co.jp on October 2011

The imagination can be a good interior decorator. For those particular about finding luscious surroundings for their repast, Kurayami Shokudo could be a good solution. As we were led into the “restaurant” with thick, 100%-effective blindfolds on and the soothing music of a Theremin playing, I felt I was entering a magical red-stone grotto, with Persian carpets, candles in coves, and Arabian temptresses waving palm fronds to cool the air. A waitress gently held both my hands and conducted me to what I imagined to be a wide, mahogany table, laid out for a decadent banquet.

The bassy voice of a man welcomed us. Despite my paltry Japanese, I understood we were departing on a journey around the world and through time. And that is indeed how it seemed. The disorientating sensation of being completely blind was fascinating, and every sensory stimulus provoked the imagination in bold ways.

We were instructed to make friends with the people around us. I discovered there were six on my table. Friends are separated to enhance the social quirkiness of the occasion. After a fashion I managed to communicate in stilted Japanese to my companions, all but one of whom were women. In my visionless state they were goddesses. What the reality was is another story. A glass of champagne was placed in front of us and we muddled through a “kampai,” clinking glasses and trying not to shower anyone in the process.

Kurayami Shokudo costs just under ¥10,000, not so much when you consider the seven courses, a champagne toast, unlimited wine, and a digestif of liqueur—plus the whole, unique production. It is organized by Japanese advertising giant Hakuhodo’s corporate university, named Kodomogokoro Seisakujo (“Children’s Spirit Factory”). If the idea was to awaken the child’s spirit within us, they were not doing badly.

Each course had an introductory story setting the scene, with music altered to evoke different surroundings. As the accordion played we arrived in 22nd century Paris. Another time we were ascending an elevator to the moon. The accompanying dishes—and the ingredients within them—were extremely varied, leading to heated discussions at the table over what we were actually eating.
“Melon!” said one. (It was seafood salad)
“That’s definitely liver,” said another. (That one actually was liver… frozen in a wrapper as a “gift from the aliens.”)

The philosophy is to experience food in a totally different way. Blindfolded, you recognize tastes, but they remain on the tip of your tongue. Some maddeningly familiar flavors blur and confuse.

Another point to the sightlessness is that Kurayami Shokudo can immaculately craft your adventure. Waitstaff were silent as ninjas—you could rarely hear when plates were placed or cleared away. Wine glasses were imperceptibly filled. One waiter whispered a short translation of any instructions given into my ear.

Two hours flew by in a bewildering whirr. Finally, each table came up with a keyword to recognize each other afterwards, and we were led out. When we returned to the world of vision, the light hurt my eyes and the “real world” seemed much less colorful than that which we had all tasted together.

Kurayami Shokudo takes place four times per year. Various locations, ¥9,830. www.kodomogokoro.jp/kurayami (Japanese)