Originally published on metropolis.co.jp on April 2010
Photo by Keigo Moriyama
The “problem” with Bulldog is knowing where to start on the menu. Should I provoke the palate with the Ballast Point Yellowtail Pale Ale, or kick off with the Southern Tier Old Man Winter Ale? Perhaps I’ll save the 9.5 percent Yeti Imperial Stout until later, but which to tackle beforehand: a pint of Baird Red Rose Amber, a bottle of Hercules Double Ale or a refreshing Magners Irish cider?
To do Bulldog justice, a drinker needs to have three hands. Failing that, the options are to choose carefully, or take the methodical approach: start at the top of the drink list and just keep going. Decisions, decisions…
This all comes as a pleasant discovery after entering the pub, which is housed in a weary ’60s-era building under the elevated highway that runs between Ginza and the Yamanote line in Yurakucho. There’s the distinct rumble of heavy vehicles overhead, but you quickly get used to it.
The interior is far more welcoming than the exterior. Large windows look out on to the busy streets of Ginza, the walls are covered in pictures that wouldn’t look out of place in a pub in Grantham or Godalming, and the tables and chairs are like something from your auntie’s kitchen. Add a few horse brasses and a genuine fireplace, and you might convince yourself that you’re back in Blighty—well, if you ignore the view out of the window.
Not that I can think of any pub in the UK where I’ve had such an impressive selection to choose from. There are no fewer than six regular beers on tap—ranging from Guinness (¥1,000 per pint) through Hoegaarden (¥1,550), Kilkenny (¥990) and the slightly sweet, fruity Baird Beer from Shizuoka (¥1,250)—plus a few guests, which are constantly rotated.
Most of the top brewing nations are present in the selection of bottles, with Belgium out in force with the Leffe (¥650), Orval (¥620), Duvel (¥1,200) and the potent Guillotine (a snip at ¥1,300). Mexico is on board with its ubiquitous Corona (¥750), England sneaks in with Hobgoblin ale (¥890) and America’s Samuel Adams also puts in an appearance (¥860). Germany is perhaps a little under-represented, but chips in with the Cannabia organic hemp brew (¥900).
The food menu is equally international. An effective tactic is to go for the tapas-size portions of edamame, nachos, onion rings, prawns, Irish stew or grilled chicken liver (from ¥500) until you find the dish you like, and then order the full-scale version. The fish and chips (¥1,150) are as British as a bowler hat, while the beer-stewed pork (¥1,080) was a personal favorite. Lest the Irish feel left out, there’s also a large pizza in the colors of the country’s tricolor flag (¥1,480).
Just be sure to leave room for one more beer—you know, for the road.
