February 15, 2013
Exotic Pantries
Tokyo’s independent markets hold a feast of rare eats
By Metropolis
Tokyo doesn’t have many sites where open-air, interactive markets span several blocks, but Ameya Yokocho is one. Once you get past the discount leather and cosmetics street hawkers, you’ll find an increasing number of food vendors who are often willing to bargain.
Nozawaya Superstore [pictured top] is located over two floors of Ameyoko Center Market, including the well-worn basement level, where you’ll hear customers haggling in several languages other than Japanese. The shop focuses on Southeast Asian and Chinese goods such as canned longan and jackfruit (¥400), dried shiitake (¥600 for a large bag) and various kinds of nuts and legumes. Fresh items include green mango and papaya, lemongrass and bunches of cilantro for ¥200—healthier and more plentiful than the sorry ¥250 lot on sale at your neighborhood store. Nozawaya has an online delivery service and world recipes on its website (Japanese only).
Half a block past Ameyoko Center Market toward Okachimachi station you’ll notice vendors on the right selling more Western imports such as maple syrup (¥530) and a range of specialty teas. Step inside the shops and you’ll also discover numerous essential oils and those used for cooking and cosmetics, such as hazelnut, jojoba, and kukui nut oil. If you’ve long been looking for a solid lot of lard in this health-conscious nation, you’ll also find it here, alongside glycerin and other soap-making supplies. Bonus: on our last visit we scored a big bottle of chipotle Tabasco sauce for just ¥100.
It’s boisterous, noisy, sometimes smelly, but fabulous if you’re in the mood for a stroll and some action while you shop.
From Ueno station (Shinobazu/central exit) to Okachimachi station. Most open-air stalls open from 10am-7pm. Nozawaya Superstore: B1F-1F, Ameyoko Center Bldg. Tel: 03-3833-5212. www.nozawaya.com
With its convenient location catty-corner to the Grand Hyatt entrance, Spice Home is well poised to attract the foreign community. The Burmese manager, Salim, is ready to smile and answer questions about his products. Though the store mainly sells ingredients for Indian dishes and similar cuisine, other products are found including Indonesian, British and even some African items like plantain flour.
Multiple varieties of dried legumes and one-kilo bags of nuts are stacked at the bottom of the shelves, but Salim says the boxed prepared meals are his bestsellers. Several vacuum-packed vegetarian dishes such as saag paneer (¥350) appeal to all kinds of foreigners, he says. You can also find lamb, a small selection of halal meats and an astounding assortment of pickles that would make Peter Piper proud. Just when you thought you had everything you need, Turkish baklava (¥650) tempts shoppers near the register.
A large hookah is displayed in the shop’s front window, advertising another product sold by Spice Home. About six different flavors of shisha tobacco are available for ¥600. Online shopping is also available.
#101 President Bldg, 3-2-16 Nishi-Azabu, Minato-ku. Tel: 03-3470-3484. Open daily 11am-11pm. Nearest stn: Roppongi. www.shtrading.co.jp
Hear the welcoming Thai greeting of “Sawadee-kap” on entering Asia Super Store. Perched above a Korean supermarket on the second floor of a building shared with Pepero restaurant, only a small sign on the street shows the way up. Consider yourself in-the-know.
Asia Super Store is a bit of a misnomer, as the store is entirely filled with Thai goods. But what sets it apart is the fresh foods/vegetables section. Here you’ll find holy basil, galangal, tamarind paste, Thai eggplant and more. You can even buy a young ready-to-drink coconut for ¥600, to get that tropical holiday feeling. Asia Super Store also has a huge array of bottles, cans and dry mixes to make preparing your favorite Thai dishes a simple feat. Try the tom yum bouillon cubes (¥70) to fool your guests into thinking you slaved over an authentic Thai soup. Other staples like jasmine rice (1kg for ¥500) and delicious orangey Thai iced tea (¥750) are standard fare.
1-1-11 Okubo, Shinjuku-ku. Tel: 03-3208-9199. Open daily 10am-11pm. Nearest stn: Higashi-Shinjuku (west exit). www.asia-superstore.com
branching out
Kaldi Coffee Farm
Apart from its namesake, Kaldi has lots of healthy snacks and baking supplies as well as Mexican goods. They also bring in several promotional food items around different holidays such as Halloween and Christmas. Most stores are inside malls and offer free coffee while you shop. www.kaldi.co.jp
Yamaya
Primarily a liquor store with a great wine selection, Yamaya also sells a wide variety of snacks, often gourmet, such as stuffed olives and salmon butter. Great for picking up party munchies along with a bottle en route to a gathering. Many branches have a refrigerated section filled with hard-to-find cheeses. www.yamaya.jp
Kinokuniya
Kinokuniya is best known for its bread and other baked goods, but you can also find rare vegetables in its wide selection of fresh produce. Last Christmas they even sold egg nog. www.super-kinokuniya.jp
Seijo Ishii
You’ve probably visited one of Seijo Ishii’s shops before or after getting on a train. Most shops are located just outside stations and are reat for picking up snacks and lunches far better than your average bento. Visit just before closing and for fresh-food discounts of 5-20%. www.seijoishii.co.jp