Originally published on metropolis.co.jp on September 2013
We knew we were in for a fun evening when the chef poured liquid nitrogen over the Campari orange aperitif and cold smoke fell into our laps. Flatiron is an interactive culinary experience, sprinkled with bits of molecular technique. Although it is housed in the exclusive Tokyo American Club, non-members can make a reservation through OpenTable (prices are higher for non-members).
Seated in front of the large iron grill, we peppered the chef with questions about ingredient provenance and preparation technique as each course was being created. Two Japanese guests had joined us for dinner, but this didn’t present a problem for the staff, who spoke to us in both English and Japanese.
The myriad of cooking presentations is fun for even the savviest of eaters. Fish consommé is warmed in a bag made from glass fibers, foie gras is cooked in a low temperature sous-vide machine and duck is seasoned with sakura smoke in a glass bowl.
The showcase of ingredients includes French and Italian truffles, foie gras, lobster and a creamy artisanal buratta cheese that is flown in once a week directly from Italy. Japanese produce is also highlighted, and features tomatoes, Hokkaido white corn so sweet and tender it is served as sashimi, and fresh wasabi leaves.
Behind the counter is chef Hide Iinuma, who has worked in European kitchens totaling an impressive 11 Michelin stars and has a further 13 years of experience in Tokyo. He deftly mixes Western technique with Japanese ingredients. Iinuma says that he “enjoys cooking in front of the customers,” but adds that it means “there is no room for error.”
Wine aficionados will want to include the wine-pairing option. The TAC is known for having one of the largest cellars in Asia, and wine program director Kelley Schaefer was formerly the chief sommelier aboard the Queen Mary 2 and Queen Victoria cruise ships. The aromatic and ever-so-spicy Alsatian Domaine Zind Humbrecht Gewürztraminer seamlessly melded with the young ginger and foie gras. Another magical combination was the fruity and bold Hirsch Vineyards Pinot Noir from Sonoma served with duck and spicy chocolate. As our server Sam succinctly said, “This wine has attitude.”
It was a whimsical experience to the very end. Before dessert, we were handed goggles and advised to shield ourselves with our napkins. Things went snap, crackle, and pop on the plate and even in our mouths. We made a mental note to return for the 6-course Saturday brunch.
The ten-course meal (¥11,000 members/¥14,000 non-members) passed quickly in two hours. There is almost too much to take in, from the preparations in front of you to listening to the explanations about the wine and each course. It’s sensory overload, but in a very good way.
