Japan Drams

Japan Drams

10 Japanese whiskies to try

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Originally published on metropolis.co.jp on April 2013

It used to be a running joke, Japanese whisky. Then, it started beating top Scotch whiskies at competitions worldwide and people stopped laughing. But with so many different brands out there, where does one start?

Blends

Suntory Kakubin (¥1,480) is probably the only whisky in the world that doesn’t carry its name on the label. It’s so iconic, it doesn’t need to. Though it’s been around since 1937, Kakubin is spearheading the current highball revival. There’s a reason for that: it’s simple, clean—and dirt-cheap.

Often overlooked because of its understated design, Nikka ‘From The Barrel’ (¥1,630) is probably the best value-for-money Japanese whisky available. It’s robust and full of character. Also, it’s bottled at a higher strength (51.4%), meaning part of the fun is experimenting with water to find out what works for you.

Most people will be familiar with premium blend Hibiki 12 (¥4,680) from the movie Lost in Translation. Bill Murray was trying to push the 17, but Suntory have since released a 12-year-old version. One of the things that sets it apart from Scotch is its partial maturation in ex-umeshu casks.
The man behind the blend Ichiro’s Malt & Grain “White Label” (¥3,500) is not the baseball legend but the leading craft distiller in Japan, Ichiro Akuto. Part of the blend comes from his own distillery in Chichibu, which he set up in 2008, but it also contains other obscure whiskies he managed to get his hands on.

Single Malts

Released last year, Yamazaki NAS (¥2,590) is the most versatile Japanese whisky on the market. It’s fabulous neat or on the rocks, in a highball, mizuwari, or in cocktails. Sorry to disappoint the rap fans, but “NAS” is shorthand for “no age statement.” Plain and simple: it won’t tell you how old it is.

Single-malt recommendations are tricky. So much depends on the style you like and the mood you’re in. The best way to get to know the field is to try two on opposite sides of the spectrum, like the Yoichi 10 (¥4,875) and the Hakushu 12 (¥7,350)—then move on to others in your favored range or style.

Karuizawa wasn’t always the Rolls Royce of Japanese whiskies. In fact, it closed in 2000 after poor sales figures. Then, whisky geeks abroad discovered it and loved it—but it was too late. At the moment, the single cask Karuizawa 12yo (¥10,500) bottled for Isetan in Shinjuku is the only one you’ll find in Japan!

Until further notice, Mars Maltage 3+25 (¥14,963) is the best blended malt whisky in the world (2013 World Whiskies Awards). A blend of malt from long-gone distilleries in Yamanashi and Kagoshima that was matured in Nagano, this is history in a bottle, but more importantly: it’s absolutely stunning.

Our last one isn’t really a whisky, but there’s whisky in it—and it’s perfect for this time of the year. An umeshu with a punch, it’s the whisky-based White Oak Umeshu (¥1,260).

Want to know more? Visit www.nonjatta.com for all things whisky and Japan.

Sample some of the world’s top drams at Whisky Live and discover other drinks and cocktails at the Tokyo International Bar Show—including tips and techniques from industry “Legends & Rising Stars.” Tickets are ¥5,000 (¥9,000 weekend pass) and available online or at Nippon Bartenders Association member bars. Check website for events schedule and ticket information