Originally published on metropolis.co.jp on July 2010
The term kappo refers to an exclusive Japanese-style establishment usually frequented by politicians, gangsters and other elites who, over high-end cuisine, discuss schemes to separate citizens from their money.
Kappo R, with its discreet lighting and understated design palette of stone and dark wood, passes the exclusive atmosphere test. And the four white-clad chefs toiling in the small open kitchen turn out very high-quality dishes. However, the leather-bound menu makes it clear that this kappo wants to extract only the minimum from your wallet.
The restaurant juxtaposes a relaxed, casual mood with the traditions and style of a formal Japanese meal. The clientele are a mix of young professionals, couples and people who appreciate good wine, good sake and good value. And what they come for are the course menus, especially the eight-dish (¥4,800) and nine-dish sets (¥6,800), which offer a panoply of complementary and contrasting seasonal tastes.
Both courses start with a lacquered box containing zensai appetizers: six tiny dishes each with a jewel-like tidbit nestled inside, such as a cube of cream cheese enrobed in red miso, a slice of satsuma imo with fresh lemon, or a morsel of vinegared takabe (yellow-striped butter fish), a catch tastiest in summer.
A recent nine-dish course featured a suimono dish of flavorful hamo (pike conger) in a rich clear katsuo-dashi broth with gelatinous water sheath, junsai and slices of baby melon as round and thin as green coins.
The tempura dish was house-smoked anago with a deeply satisfying taste that lingered like a favorite memory. A chilled glass of fruity junmai ginjo Kudoki Jozu from Yamanashi (¥750) was a fine recommendation by the wine/sake sommelier.
The nine-dish set also included two choices from the grill: aji shioyaki and three thick slices of finely marbled Saga beef. The salted fins and tail of the aji were as crisp as potato chips. The flesh was delicious on its own, but a citrus-based dipping sauce was also provided. The exceedingly tender beef needed nothing extra, but you could add a dab of sweet miso, fleur de sel or cracked pepper. This dish was paired with another first-rate recommendation: a glass of the dry Houhai junmai from Aomori (¥750).
A cheaper four-dish set (¥3,000) is available, or you just can nibble your way through the extensive tanbin à la carte menu. Prices for the 20 or so seasonal delicacies range from ¥480 for hijiki seaweed and potato salad, up to ¥2,500 for grilled slices of Saga beef.
The service at Kappo R is warm and friendly. And if you sit at the counter, the chefs enjoy explaining each dish in English.
