August 26, 2010
Let’s Meat
Tokyo’s Western-style steakhouses have the cut of beef you crave
By Metropolis
Originally published on metropolis.co.jp on August 2010
37 Steakhouse & Bar
Restaurant Type Independent
Beef Country of Origin Australia, Japan
Cooking Method Charcoal grill
Sample Cuts Australia: bone-in sirloin (12 oz/350g: ¥7,000); porterhouse (23 oz/650g: ¥12,000; 35 oz/1,000g: ¥19,000). Japan: tenderloin (5 oz/150g: ¥4,000)
Sample Side Dishes Mashed potatoes (¥700), creamed spinach (¥900), grilled asparagus (¥900)
Course Menus ¥5,000
Notes Thick porterhouse steaks, a hip crowd and a cool vibe enliven this Roppongi Hills hotspot, which has won great acclaim since opening in March. Highlighting the interior is a glassed-in kitchen where the chefs grill slabs of Australian wagyu that have been aged 21-35 days
Comment from the Chef “We prefer to use Australian Angus because of the balance and harmony of the meat and the moderate fat. Our goal is to recreate the atmosphere of a New York-style steakhouse, such as Peter Luger.”— Tatsuya Shikanai, grand chef
Editor’s Pick 12 oz (350g) Australian Black Angus boneless ribeye (¥3,900)
2F Keyakizaka Terrace, 6-15-1 Roppongi, Minato-ku. Open daily lunch & dinner. Tel: 03-5413-3737. Nearest stn: Roppongi. www.37steakhouse.com
57
Restaurant type Independent
Beef Country of Origin US, Australia, Japan
Cooking Method Charcoal grill
Sample Cuts US: New York strip (12 oz/350g: ¥4,800). Australia: filet (9 oz/250g: ¥4,500). Japan: Sendai filet (7 oz/200g: ¥7,500)
Sample Side Dishes Cajun potato wedges (¥700), sautéed mushrooms (¥500), rice pilaf (¥650)
Course Menus N/a
Notes 57 started out as a steakhouse before changing its focus to a cocktail lounge, but with the recent arrival of chef Frederick Bowden, the restaurant has returned to its roots. Bowden’s wide-ranging menu features a trio of steaks complemented by classic chophouse fare like pork loin and roast rack of lamb
Comment from the Chef “I prefer North American beef—Select or Choice if American, or Grade AA or AAA if Canadian… I find Aussie beef to be a bit small, whereas Japan beef is too big. Aussie beef tends to lack in good marbling and Japanese beef can have too much.”— Frederick Bowden, chef du cuisine
B1, 4-2-35 Roppongi, Minato-ku. Tel: 03-5775-7857. Open daily for dinner; Sunday brunch. Nearest stn: Roppongi. www.fiftyseven.co.jp
Beacon
Restaurant type Independent
Beef Country of Origin Australia, Japan
Cooking Method Charcoal grill
Sample Cuts Australia: sirloin (7 oz/200g: ¥3,200); filet (5 oz/150g: ¥3,600; 9 oz/250g: ¥5,500); rib-eye (10.5 oz/300g: ¥4,400; 16 oz/450g: ¥6,000). Japan: sirloin (7 oz/200g: ¥4,800; 10.5 oz/300g: ¥6,800)
Sample Side Dishes Baked macaroni with scamorza, ricotta and sun dried tomato (¥1,000), creamed spinach (¥900), sautéed mushrooms (¥1,200)
Course Menus ¥5,500 & ¥7,500
Notes Long grain-fed, grade 1 Angus beef from Australia makes up the bulk of the steak menu at this elegant “urban chophouse.” The grilled meats are complemented by a popular, wide-ranging wine list that’s heavy on New World, Australian and New Zealand producers
Comment from the Chef “The most heartbreaking moment for me is when a customer orders their steak well done, especially a big rib-eye or filet. I feel nothing but pity for the poor beast for giving his life for nothing”—David Chiddo, executive chef
Editor’s Pick “House specialty” 10.5 oz (300g) Cajun-style marinated rib-eye (¥4,500)
1-2-5 Shibuya, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-6418-0077. Open daily lunch & dinner; Sunday brunch. Nearest stn: Shibuya or Omotesando.
Gotham Grill
Restaurant type Independent
Beef Country of Origin Japan
Cooking Method Charcoal grill
Sample Cuts Rib-eye (11 oz/310g: ¥4,200; 16 oz/450g: ¥6,300); New York strip (16 oz/450g: ¥6,300); filet (7 oz/200g: ¥3,150; 11 oz/310g: ¥4,200); porterhouse (21 oz/600g: ¥8,400; 32 oz/900g: ¥12,600)
Sample Side Dishes Au gratin potatoes (¥630), sautéed mushrooms (¥840), carrot glace (¥525)
Course Menus N/a
Notes The in-house aging cabinet is the star of the show at this down-home steakhouse in Ebisu. Forget the heavy marbling and buttery texture typical of Japanese beef; Gotham Grill’s dry aging—a rarity in Tokyo—results in dense, intensely flavored steaks
Comment from the Chef “I mostly use Jersey cows because I want to serve juicy, meaty and red beef that’s full of iron. I feel Australian beef is too watery and the taste of meat is lost.”—Sasaki Yukinobu, chef de cuisine
Editor’s Pick 11 oz (310g) New York strip (¥4,200)
3-16-10 Higashi, Shibuya-ku. Open daily lunch & dinner. Tel: 03-5447-0536. Nearest stn: Ebisu.
Lawry’s the Prime Rib
Restaurant type Chain (US)
Beef Country of Origin US
Cooking Method Convection oven
Sample Cuts Prime rib, various cuts
Sample Side Dishes Dinners served with salad, mashed potatoes and Yorkshire pudding
Course Menus ¥4,500-¥8,000
Notes Opulence is the watchword at the Tokyo branch of this storied American chain (pictured top). Thick linens, plush carpeting and elegant staff make for a classic steakhouse atmosphere, and the prime rib—carved tableside—is served with all the fixings
Comment from the Chef “Our head restaurant in America has been in business for 70 years, so it makes sense for us to serve American beef… We cover the beef with our original seasoned salt and let it sit before setting it in the oven. We let it roast slowly to get rid of the unnecessary fat and soften the meat.”—Shimamura Kiyoshi, chef
B1F, 2-17-22 Akasaka, Minato-ku. Open daily lunch & dinner. Tel: 03-5524-2288. Nearest stn: Tameike-Sanno
New York Grill
Restaurant type Hotel
Beef Country of Origin Japan, Australia (occasionally others)
Cooking Method Gas grill
Sample Cuts Australia: New York strip (10.5 oz/300g: ¥7,500); tenderloin (8 oz/230g: ¥8,400). Japan: Yonezawa sirloin (6 oz/180g: ¥9,200); Yamagata rib-eye (7 oz/200g: ¥8,500)
Sample Side Dishes Crispy duck-fat potato fries (¥1,200); mashed potatoes with garlic chips (¥1,100); sautéed asparagus with dill-flavored hollandaise (¥1,500)
Course Menus ¥11,000-¥21,000
Notes Already popular for its spectacular views and lively bar scene, New York Grill has, since the arrival of executive chef Nadine Waechter Moreno in 2008, become a destination for foodies as well. Miyagi beef tenderloin, for instance, is served with sweet-corn fritter and tomato compote
Comment from the Chef “Australian beef contains more lean meat than Japanese beef, so it matches with various kinds of sauce. That stimulates the chef’s creativity. Japanese beef has stronger umami compared with others.”—Koichi Yoneda, executive sous chef
52F Park Hyatt Tokyo, 3-7-1-2 Nishi-Shinjuku. Tel: 03-5323-3458. Open daily lunch & dinner. Nearest stn: Shinjuku. tokyo.park.hyatt.com
The Oak Door
Restaurant type Hotel
Beef Country of Origin Australia, US, Japan
Cooking Method Wood-fired oven
Sample Cuts Australia: tenderloin (8 oz/230g: ¥5,400); US: tenderloin (10 oz/280g: ¥6,200); Japan: Kobe A5 sirloin (5 oz/150g: ¥13,200); Ibaraki A4 tenderloin (8 oz/230g: ¥18,500)
Sample Side Dishes Sautéed mushrooms (¥1,200); flash-fried onion rings (¥900); braised carrots (¥900)
Course Menus ¥8,500-¥12,800
Notes The Grand Hyatt Tokyo’s flagship restaurant draws steak-loving hotel guests and well-heeled locals alike. The dramatic dining room overlooks an open kitchen with wood-fired ovens, where chefs cook up sizzling steaks from prime cuts of wet-aged beef
Comment from the Chef “Japan has the highest-quality beef—and it’s also in the highest price range. We serve different styles of meat for different tastes and budgets. Our Australian Black Angus comes from Ranger Valley, the country’s top producer.”—Troy Lee, chef de cuisine
Editor’s Pick 11 oz (310g) Australia sirloin (¥6,500)
6F Grand Hyatt Tokyo, 6-10-3 Roppongi, Minato-ku. Open daily 11:30am-10:30pm. Tel: 03-4333-8784. Nearest stn: Roppongi. http://tokyo.grand.hyatt.com
The Oregon Bar and Grill
Restaurant type Independent
Beef Country of Origin Mexico, US, Japan
Cooking Method Charcoal grill
Sample Cuts Mexico: sirloin (8 oz/230g-12 oz/340g: ¥4,000-¥5,600). US: sirloin (8 oz/230g-12 oz/340g: ¥5,000-¥7,000). Japan: sirloin (8 oz/230g-12 oz/340g: ¥6,000-¥8,800)
Sample Side Dishes Sautéed mushrooms (¥800); French fries (¥650)
Course Menus ¥6,800 & ¥8,500
Notes This sky-high Shiodome restaurant, produced in collaboration with US seafood chain McCormick & Schmick’s, marries fine dining with classic steakhouse cooking. All the beef is custom-aged, with the Mexican Sonora brand offering an off-price alternative to the Japanese wagyu
Comment from the Chef “Grain-fed American beef has a very distinctive taste and softness that is superior to beef from other countries… I think that, unlike the juiciness that is characteristic of Japanese beef, American beef represents true meatiness with every bite.”—Masanori Toda, executive chef
Editor’s Pick 10 oz (340g) US Angus sirloin (¥6,000)
Shiodome City Center Bldg 42F, 1-5-2 Higashi-Shimbashi, Minato-ku. Open daily lunch & dinner. Tel: 03-6215-8585. Nearest stn: Shiodome. www.restaurant-mrs.com
Outback Steakhouse
Restaurant type Chain (US)
Beef Country of Origin Australia
Cooking Method “Seasoned and seared”
Sample Cuts Sirloin: 7 oz/200g (¥2,610); New York strip: 10.5 oz/300g (¥3,240); rib-eye: 9 oz/250g (¥3,040); filet: 6 oz/170g (¥3,140); Angus ribeye: 10 oz/280g (¥3,560).
Sample Side Dishes Baked potato; French fries; garlic mashed potatoes; coleslaw (two side dishes included with each steak order, or ¥270 á la carte)
Course Menus N/a
Notes This popular US chain attracts a genki beef-and-beer crowd thanks to its lean steaks and low prices. Its restaurants are located in the bustling neighborhoods of Shibuya, Roppongi and Shinagawa
Comment from the Chef “Aussie and US beef are quality materials that we will always consider to serve in our restaurants. Japanese beef, especially wagyu, is a different story and probably does not fit Outback’s standards when it comes to serving steaks at a ‘reasonable’ price.”—Efrem Cutler, corporate executive chef, Outback International
Editor’s Pick 10.5 oz (300g) sirloin, a.k.a. the “Outback Special” (¥3,140)
2F, 6-1-3 Roppongi, Minato-ku. Open daily lunch & dinner. Tel: 03-5413-4870. Nearest stn: Roppongi. www.outbacksteakhouse.co.jp
Roti
Restaurant type Independent
Beef Country of Origin Japan, America, Australia or New Zealand
Cooking Method Charcoal grill
Sample Cuts 8 oz/230g sirloin (¥2,000)
Sample Side Dishes Sautéed mushrooms (¥700); char-grilled vegetables (¥900), mashed potatoes (¥500)
Course Menus N/a
Notes Specializing in rotisserie chicken, Roti also serves up burgers, beef salads and thick sirloin steaks, complemented by an award-winning wine list. All meat is carefully sourced from leading producers
Comment from the Chef “We use a gas char-grill for all our steaks; we do sometimes prepare steak in a more French style, using an iron frying pan, and prepare the sauce by using the juices and caramelization left in the pan. We have a cold smoker at the restaurant and sometimes cold smoke whole cuts with hickory, apple or pecan wood.”—Ian Tozer, executive chef
6-6-9 Roppongi, Minato-ku. Tel: 03-5785-3671. Open daily lunch & dinner; weekend brunch. Nearest stn: Roppongi. www.roti.jp
Ruth’s Chris Steak House
Restaurant type Chain (US)
Beef Country of Origin US, Australia, Japan
Cooking Method Broiler
Sample Cuts US: New York strip (12 oz/340g: ¥7,500; 16 oz/450g: ¥9,500); rib-eye (12 oz/340g: ¥7,500; 16 oz/450g: ¥9,500); petit filet (8 oz/230g: ¥5,500); filet (11 oz/310g: ¥7,500). Australia: porterhouse for two (36 oz/1,000g: ¥23,000)
Sample Side Dishes Au gratin potatoes (¥1,100); creamed spinach (¥1,100); broiled tomatoes (¥1,100); sautéed mushrooms (¥1,300)
Course Menus ¥10,500-¥15,000
Notes One of America’s favorite steakhouse chains serves up a full array of beef cuts, complemented by classic appetizers, salads and sides. The location in Kasumigaseki makes this the chophouse of choice for Tokyo’s power brokers
Comment from the Chef “We use mainly U.S.D.A. Prime steaks, which is the best available from America. U.S.D.A Prime is the top grade—only 2 percent of all beef produced from the USA. All our steaks are seasoned with only salt and pepper and broiled in a specially designed broiler.”—Yoshihiro Kuroda, kitchen manager
Editor’s Pick 22 oz (620g) Australia wagyu porterhouse (¥13,000)
Tokyo Club Bldg, 3-2-6 Kasumigaseki, Chiyoda-ku. Tel: 03-3501-0822. Open daily lunch & dinner. Nearest stn: Toranomon, exit 5. www.ruthschris.co.jp
The Steakhouse
Restaurant type Hotel
Beef Country of Origin Australia, Japan
Cooking Method Charcoal grill
Sample Cuts Australia: sirloin (9 oz/250g: ¥3,800; 13.5 oz/380g: ¥5,700); tenderloin (5 oz/150g: ¥3,800; 11oz/310g: ¥7,600). Japan: sirloin (7 oz/200g: ¥7,500); tenderloin (5 oz/150g: ¥7,500)
Sample Side Dishes Chili steak fries (¥700); sautéed mushrooms (¥800)
Course Menus From ¥6,200
Notes Located on the third floor of the flash ANA InterContinental Tokyo, The Steakhouse serves both grain-fed and grass-fed Australian beef, as well as wagyu from Okinawa. The interior is highlighted by an open kitchen with a 3m-long bincho grill.
Comment from the Chef “We use Australian beef because it’s safe and has a wide range of textures… We also provide domestic wagyu beef, not Kokusan-gyu. It’s soft and has a well-balanced proportion of lean meat and fat, and it’s not as expensive as brands like Kobe beef.”—Makoto Kato, executive chef
Editor’s Pick 9 oz (250g) grain-fed Australian sirloin (¥3,800)
3F ANA InterContinental Tokyo, 1-12-33 Akasaka, Minato-ku. Open daily lunch & dinner. Tel: 03-3505-1111. Nearest stn: Tameike-Sanno. www.anaintercontinental-tokyo.jp
Trader Vic’s
Restaurant type Hotel, chain (US)
Beef Country of Origin Australia, Japan
Cooking Method Wood-fired Chinese oven (dinner); cast iron grill (lunch)
Sample Cuts Australia: sirloin (12 oz/400g : ¥8,000; 15 oz/500g: ¥10,000). Japan: filet (6 oz/180g: ¥14,500)
Sample Side Dishes Broccoli and cheddar (¥800); baked potato (¥800); creamed spinach (¥800)
Course Menus From ¥9,500
Notes The island-themed decor and colorful cocktails at this long-time favorite mask the seriousness of the steaks. Japanese A4-grade beef and Australian long grain-fed Black Angus are given a lovingly smoky flavor in the cherry wood-fired Chinese oven. Note: the Angus is also used in a half-pound (225g) cheeseburger
Comment from the Chef “The fat content is very important, as we use our wood-fired Chinese oven and while cooking it melts away, so a high grade of Japanese beef does not cook well in our oven. Our selection of the grade A4 was perfect because of its balance of fat and meat. Most recently, we have found Black Angus from Australia, and the flavor and texture are perfect for cooking in our oven.”—Takahiko Fujii, executive chef
Editor’s Pick 9 oz (250g) Australian Black Angus sirloin (¥6,000)
New Otani Tokyo, 4-1 Kioicho, Chiyoda-ku. Tel: 03-3265-4707. Open daily lunch & dinner; Sunday brunch. Nearest stn: Akasaka-Mitsuke. www.newotani.co.jp
The restaurants in this article were selected solely at the discretion of Metropolis staff. None of the content is paid for.
