Originally published on metropolis.co.jp on November 2013

Oyster bars often fall into the trap of taking themselves too seriously. They charge an arm and a leg for molluscs served with far too much flourish in over-lit spaces that resembles  jewelry stores more than restaurants. Newly opened, Kaki-Iredoki (5F Takagi Annex, 1-19-7 Kami-Meguro, Meguro-ku; 050-5872-5596) corrects all that with reasonable prices and a comfy setting—there’s even a kotatsu out on the balcony overlooking the station. Oysters shipped directly from Hokkaido, Sanriku and Hiroshima start at just ¥190 each for grilled or ¥250 raw. The name of the restaurant is a pun on the Japanese phrase for “peak season” and its prices and late closing time will likely ensure it stays busy year round. The kaki zoni (¥890), an oyster and mochi soup, and the uni (sea urchin) nabe (¥1,280) will warm the cockles during the cold nights of autumn and the shrimp boudin blanc (¥780) is somewhat surprising seafood sausage. The drink list is designed to go along with seafood, including regional nihonshu, Chablis and sparkling wines.