This article was originally published as “Why Outdoor Clothing Is Huge in Japan—Even in the City” in Metropolis Magazine, Autumn 2025.

Dressing “outdoorsy” hasn’t always been a compliment. The internet still roasts German tourists who look like they’re ready to hike through downtown Paris. Yet today, some of the most coveted names in Japanese fashion are outdoor clothing brands. Cool boutiques in London and New York stock these outdoor brands, and Japanese fashion magazines, often featuring styles that incorporate outdoorsy items, are frequently cited by fashionistas abroad, even if they can’t read the text.

But what exactly is “outdoor fashion,” especially when we’re not always talking about what people wear on actual hikes or camping trips? Why is it so big in Japan? And how do you pull it off?

“Functional Fashion,” an Oxymoron?

Outdoor clothing and gear exist for one purpose: functionality. Water resistance, breathability, insulation, durability and so on. By that measure, outdoor clothing represents the peak of what garments can technically do. But when these pieces are worn in the city, it’s no longer about climbing the mountain or spending the night in the wilderness. It’s about being “over-prepared” for everyday life, or letting your weekend hobbies show through your weekday style.

Historically, though, “fashion” and “function” were rarely compatible. Fashion belonged to the realm of high-class culture, especially in Europe, which is still seen as fashion’s center. As French sociologist Pierre Bourdieu argued, “taste” is a tool of distinction, a way for the bourgeoisie to separate themselves from the working class. While fashion involves clothing, clothing is not always fashion. Fashion belongs to a culture of enthusiasm, stratification and trend, at once a form of self-expression and a collective practice that conforms to social ideals. Trends are about joining the bandwagon, yet they must keep shifting before others catch up, designed to exclude the “wrong” audience. Belonging and exclusivity have always gone hand in hand.

Functionality didn’t fit this system. Function evolves toward a single goal, better movement, better protection and so on, while fashion thrives on endless cycles and returns. Delicate fabrics and decoration often restricted mobility, which was itself a class signal: proof that the wearer didn’t need to work. So much of fashion was not functional and outdoor activities that required functionality were not a desirable aesthetic to reference in fashion either.

Of course, there is an exception. Imagine tweed Norfolk jackets and deerstalkers walking through the woods of Sandringham—is that a “lewk”? Most would say yes: that’s a sophisticated style. Shooting and hunting are, technically, outdoor activities, and they’re probably one of the earliest examples of clothes designed for function being incorporated into wider “fashionable” use. But this was only because of their association with the upper class, distinguishing them from other outdoor activities. Before asking “Is it a fit, or are they just skinny?” the better question might be: “Or are they just posh?”

Today, exclusivity still matters, but functionality has become a form of value in itself. We expect performance from the products we buy. Global urbanization also meant that outdoor activities became desirable leisure pursuits, a kind of luxury. The outdoors became an aesthetic in its own right.

This is especially true in Japan, which helps explain why the country has so fully embraced outdoor fashion. To begin with, Japan’s embrace of outdoor activity and its clothing is shaped by geography and history. Nearly 70% of the country is forested (comparable to nations like Sweden, Finland and Bhutan), with mountains crisscrossing the archipelago. Domestic tourism has a long history in Japan, especially popularized across classes in the Edo period. Travel was done on foot through the mountains, along developed trails with stops at post towns. While hiking and camping in their modern forms may be relatively new, outdoor activities as leisure have deep roots in Japan.

Rapid industrialization of the Meiji era pushed people into cities and fueled demand for weekend escapes, leading to mountain resorts across the country. After WWII, the 1964 Tokyo Olympics gave athleisure and sportswear a boost. Later, the Nagano Winter Olympics in 1998 spotlighted Japan as a global winter sports destination. By then, a growing middle class, new leisure habits and urban fashion scenes had all made outdoor clothing fashionable in Japan.

Practical Guide to Japanese Outdoor Fashion

Enough history, let’s get to the point. Here are the key Japanese brands and labels, as well as tips for shopping and styling.

[Japanese Brands and Labels to Know]

[Where to Buy]

Jimbocho and Ochanomizu have traditionally been the areas for outdoor and sports clothing and gear in Tokyo, and they’re still fun places to explore retailers. Today, though, many flagship stores are concentrated in western Tokyo, especially Shibuya, Omotesando and Daikanyama.

For fashion-focused shopping, official brand stores are best, with flagship locations offering full collections and exclusive releases. Mass-market third-party retailers, including major outdoor shops, may only carry limited items or logo-heavy basics, often produced under license.

But the real secret lies in 別注 (betchu). It literally means “special order,” not you customizing your order, but retailers commissioning brands to make exclusives just for them. This is especially common in “select shops,” a category of Japanese boutiques that curate their stores with multiple brands, their own labels and collaborations to fit a specific aesthetic. So Beams, United Arrows or Journal Standard might ask Patagonia, Arc’teryx or another big name for a design with their own twist. The result? Rare, design-forward items you won’t find in the mainline. 

[How to Wear]

You can wear outdoor fashion however you like, but if you want to channel Japanese style, here are some guiding principles.

Mix Materials
Mixing different textures is one of the easiest ways to make your outfit look interesting. If you’re unsure, categorize materials into organic/natural (like cotton or wool) and synthetic/technical (like shiny nylon) and use both in balance. For beginners, keep your color palette similar while playing with different textures.
Example: a Gore-Tex jacket with chinos, mountain shoes with a corduroy bucket hat, or a linen shirt with hydro shorts.

Layering and Relaxed Silhouettes
Japanese street style has long embraced layering and looser fits, which work naturally with outdoor elements.
Example: layer a breathable mesh vest over a simple shirt, pair with wide hiking cargos.

Make Themes
Outdoor fashion is all about intentionality. A nod to a bygone era contextualizes the look. Tap into Americana, 90s Japanese street style or other cultural references.
Example: thrift a vintage Patagonia fleece, pair an Arc’teryx jacket with 70s jeans, or mix retro hiking sneakers with simple fits.

Hop on Instagram and use hashtags like #アウトドアファッション (autodoa fasshon—literally, “outdoor fashion) to find more everyday inspo. One account I especially recommend is Kaneko Shigeru (@shigerukaneko), a Beams buyer known for his love of outdoor

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