Originally published on metropolis.co.jp on March 2014

Steak houses in Japan are known for their elegant atmosphere, fussy service and prices that can break the bank. Ikinari Steak, with two shops in Ginza (4-10-14 Ginza and 6-4-14 Ginza, Chuo-ku. http://meturl.com/ikinaristeak), turns the tables on the whole concept—an affordable standing restaurant for meat eaters. The ikinari in the name means “suddenly” because you can forget all the fuss about appetizers and salads and get straight to the good stuff. Start by choosing the cut (rib loin is ¥5 per gram, sirloin is ¥7 and fillet is ¥8) and the weight (300g minimum), pinch your fingers to indicate the thickness you want and tell them how well you would like it cooked. The simple formula has proven a hit and there are often lines running down the sidewalk. Once inside, though, grilled goodness will soon be yours.