Originally published on metropolis.co.jp on January 2012

In a city where newer, higher buildings are flung up every day, Yanaka persists as an enclave of unperturbed calm. There’s pleasure to be had from meandering idly through its narrow lanes and savoring the tranquility, while wondering what lies around the next corner. It might be a small gallery, a homely cafe or a venerable wooden townhouse. You might encounter a local calmly sketching the scenery or, as I did, a tall vampish transvestite performing the tea ceremony for a small gathering of onlookers.

Stroll around for long enough and eventually you’ll find your way to Yanaka cemetery. This atmospheric 25-acre expanse is famed for the cherry blossoms which cover its paths in April, making it a prime hanami spot. Among the notables resting here are several members of the Tokugawa Shogun family, though they enjoy the privacy of a separate compound you can see only from outside its walls.

Adjacent to the cemetery is Tenno-ji, an intimate, restful temple in whose grounds a large copper Buddha has been reposing since 1690. This is only one of the numerous small temples and shrines scattered throughout Yanaka, and it’s at these that the area’s languorous air is most enveloping. The insulation from Tokyo’s urban clamor is almost total, and it would be easy to imagine yourself transported back to 19th-century Edo, were it not for the spire of the Sky Tree poking up over the treetops.

If you want to go to Yanaka’s prime cultural sight though, you’re going to have to wait. The Asakura Choso Museum—the immaculately preserved former home and studio of sculptor Asakura Fumio—is undergoing extensive renovation, and is due to reopen in spring, 2013.

To find out more information about the area’s history, sights and culture visit here.

Peter Sidell

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What’s In Store?

Get shopping in the anti-Shibuya

Yanaka’s narrow shopping streets will have something for most visitors, among its countless food stalls, meat and vegetable markets, textile shops, secondhand and vintage clothing havens, pottery workshops, as well as tiny shops carrying traditional crafts such as Japanese paper and hand-woven bamboo baskets. Here are a few suggested stops for your ramble.

Yanaka Coffee

Although this small coffee chain has shops scattered across Tokyo, the Yanaka branch is the original one. The coffee is more than passable, as well as being some of the cheapest espresso in Tokyo. Recommended: sit outside with a cup from their own roasted beans (¥190) and leisurely watch passersby.
3-8-6 Yanaka, Taito-ku. Tel: 03-5834-0811. Open daily 10am-8pm. Nearest stn: Nippori

Isetatsu

The last store of its kind in Tokyo, Isetatsu specializes in chiyogami, traditional handmade block-printed paper. The shop sells items ranging from paper fans to jewelry boxes, all adorned with colorful and bright patterns. Recommended: the gorgeous stationery, for a great gift.
2-8-19 Yanaka, Taito-ku. Tel: 03-3823-1453. Open daily 10am-6pm. Nearest stn: Nippori

Necoaction

Yanaka is famous for its high feline population. In their honor, many shops prominently feature a cat motif. Stop by Necoaction to fill up on catty memorabilia, with enough live ones in the shop to make you cough up a fur ball. Recommended: the trinkets—from keychains to socks to picture frames to notebooks…
3-10-5 Nishinippori, Arakawa-ku. Tel: 03-5834-8733. Open daily 11am-6pm. Nearest stn: Nippori

Suzuki Meat

A long queue and screenshots of TV shows advertising the products greet you at Suzuki, and while lining up for a simple minced meat croquette might seem exaggerated, these delectable cutlets (from ¥120) might well be some of the best you will have. Recommended: the famous Suzuki croquettes, of course.
3-15-5 Nishinippori, Arakawa-ku. Tel: 03-3821-4526. Open daily 10am-7pm. Nearest stn: Nippori

Yanaka Senbei

En route back to Nippori station, stop by Yanaka Senbei to stock up on rice crackers, seasoned and boiled in the “Tokyo-style.” Choose from a selection of soy sauce, nori, kombu (kelp), or sesame seed flavors. Recommended: for a great snack before getting back on the train.
18-1-8 Yanaka, Taito-ku. Tel: 03-3821-6421. Open daily 10am-7pm. Nearest stn: Nippori

Vivian Morelli