February 1, 2024
An artful omakase dining experience
Is excess an art form? Kinsu Fumiyuki, the chef and owner of the recently opened Censu in Jingumae, believes so. His omakase menu flavorfully flexes a proud aptitude for overabundance. For a mere ¥8,800, diners are met with the deluge that is the 14-course tasting menu. It is equal parts innovative, ambrosial, and entirely overwhelming. Sashimi courses are paired with fresh fruit and dressed in refined, house-made herb oils. Dishes like cheese-stuffed soft-shell crab and caramel-coated corn on the cob dance well outside the confines of the Japanese larder, but Censu’s signature closer, a yakionigiri in abalone dashi topped with seasonal seafood, reels in the freewheeling meal and ties it directly to its kaiseki-inspired roots. A meal at Censu is, inarguably, one of the greatest values in the city right now.
2-12-9 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku
12 min. walk from Gaiemmae Station