Originally published on metropolis.co.jp on February 2013
At the risk of sounding like a trainspotter, Doai station on the Joetsu Line just outside Minakami is a breathtaking spot to visit.
Coming from Niigata back to Yubiso/Minakami the platform is where you would expect it to be; set against a beautiful natural backdrop at the foot of Mount Tanigawa. It is the northbound platform heading across the border into Niigata and towards Echigo Yuzawa that offers a jaw-dropping surprise. It is 70 meters below ground set in part of a 12km tunnel, requiring anyone disembarking there to negotiate 480+ steps back to the surface. There is a reason it is called “Japan’s top station for moles.”
It’s an amazing sight whether you see it from the top or the bottom. The tunnel disappears with a seemingly endless flight of steps. Although a working station, it is a tourist location in its own right with several local hotels running trips to view this impressive work of engineering. Even people riding the train try to hop out to snap the obligatory photo before their journey continues under the Tanigawa range.
Doai station is unmanned and rather run down but there is a steady stream of curious visitors, especially on the weekends. Hikers pass through toting bulging packs to prepare for trekking up one of Japan’s famous 100 peaks with a gruelling 480-step workout.
JR thoughtfully placed a bench halfway up for anyone that needs to catch a breather. Beside the stairs is a strip of rock and rubble that looks as if, in wealthier times, there was an intention to install a massive escalator.
In winter climbers often camp in the waiting room overnight before commencing their climb at daybreak. Back in the ’80s a couple of Aussie ski bums even made Doai station their home for most of the winter, heading up to Tenjindaira everyday to make the most of the backcountry and popping back to Minakami to stock up on supplies and bathe in the onsen.
Suggesting a stop to check out a train station raises eyebrows, but every visitor is blown away by Doai station’s staircase. It is a rare one who doesn’t descend, often regretting it as they slog back up.
Rufus Starbuck is a Niigata-based contributor to JapanTourist.jp
