Kawasaki Fish Market

Kawasaki Fish Market

Originally published on metropolis.co.jp on September 2009 A nice sense of the macabre pervades most fish markets, and Kawasaki’s is no exception. Lifeless fish eyes the size of our palms stared up at us on a recent trip, accompanied by sushi chef Sarkeo Shinya. And that wasn’t all: cleavers lie on bloody cutting boards; bones […]

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Originally published on metropolis.co.jp on September 2009

Photo by Mari Krueger

Photo by Mari Krueger

A nice sense of the macabre pervades most fish markets, and Kawasaki’s is no exception. Lifeless fish eyes the size of our palms stared up at us on a recent trip, accompanied by sushi chef Sarkeo Shinya. And that wasn’t all: cleavers lie on bloody cutting boards; bones and gristle are scattered about; partially sliced seafood bleeds into its tank; the last dying wave rises from a nearly lifeless tentacle; the entwined ropes of salmon roe look like TV crime show intestines. We’re convinced this place is spookier than any haunted house.

But then there’s the educational angle to Kawasaki Fish Market. For instance, we didn’t know that bluefin tuna weighing more than 700lbs—like the one we saw with its head hacked open on a carving block—could be caught off the coast of Hokkaido. Nor did we know there are about a billion varieties of crabs available to eat, some of them bright red and spiky, others brown and spiky, others regularly crab-shaped (although, after seeing so many sizes and varieties, we’re not really sure what “regularly crab-shaped” is any more).

We don’t mind admitting that we’re more tourists than serious buyers when we go to the market, but no one at Kawasaki seemed to mind. The place was bustling but not overly busy—a different world compared to the fast-paced frenzy of Tsukiji. Vendors were happy to let us lift mesh bags of live octopi out of their tanks (the mesh keeps them from having a go at all the other live critters swimming about… for now). Soy sauce, tea and produce are also available, and you can buy knives and have them engraved—should you find yourself developing sushi chef aspirations of your own.

1-1-1 Mizusawa, Miyamae-ku, Kawasaki. Closed some Wednesdays. Nearest stn: Miyamaedaira (Den-en-toshi line). www.hokusui.jp Mari Krueger