Originally published on metropolis.co.jp on August 2010
Photo by Keigo Moriyama
When Joseph and Mary found no room at the inn, they did at least have the option of delivering their divine package in an adjacent barn. At Monjirou, there is no such safe haven. With its wide selection of delicious kushiyaki at surprisingly low prices, the place is almost always packed. It took us three visits just to get in, and even then we were warned that we might have to move to a smaller table later on.
The location helps. Situated in the steep inclines of Shibuya’s Sakuragaoka area, it’s surrounded by offices and other eateries, attracting a young, well-to-do clientele whose lively conversation gives the restaurant a convivial vibe.
Despite the bustle, service is speedy, and before long we’re tucking in to the first of many shared dishes. First, a bowl of nimono arrived gratis; the soft vegetables and assorted innards in salty broth were warming under the strong air-con. A generous serving of deep-fried tofu (¥380) was crunchy outside and runny inside, topped with leeks, bonito flakes and a dollop of fresh ginger puree. The fried asparagus (¥380) from the specials menu yielded lank vegetables in heavy breadcrumbs, drizzled in a tart tonkatsu sauce. Better yet, the toriwasa (¥420), also a special, was a bountiful plate of moist raw chicken breast, its edges delicately seared, served with fiery wasabi.
More typical fare from the kushiyaki grill included tebasaki chicken wings (¥150) that were so crispy you could taste the charcoal (this isn’t on the English menu, so be sure to ask); tsukune (¥120); and a selection of yakitori (¥380), which included the standard combination of thigh meat, heart, liver, crispy skin and spring onion, all fired to juicy perfection. The sirloin skewers (¥150) were greasy and salty but tender, and served with more of that wicked wasabi. On the flamed-veggie front we tried a couple of sticks each of baby tomatoes (¥120), shiitake mushrooms (¥120) and shishito peppers (¥80).
The drinks menu offers the usual draft beer (Yebisu, ¥550), shochu (from ¥410) and sake—we went for the dryish Uragasumi sake, available hot or cold. Again, most of the nihonshu and shochu selection is not found on the English menu, so call over one of the obliging staff if you need help. The dessert of the day was a tiny sliver of tiramisu (¥280)—creamy, firm and topped with plenty of espresso.
After all that chow, Monjirou wasn’t the only one that was stuffed. On the way out, we were handed a rice ball as a parting gift; we unwrapped it for a nibble, but soon gave up. No room at the inn, see.
