Originally published on metropolis.co.jp on August 2010

There’s no shortage of worthwhile reasons to visit Nagasaki. Great weather, a beautiful seafront, first-rate museums, delicious food, international flair and a fascinating—though at times tragic—history make this one of the most interesting cities in Japan. And its charms don’t end when the sun goes down—far from it, in fact.

Nagasaki has an amazing wealth of watering holes, and it’s no mystery why: this centuries-old port town has been meeting the needs of travelers for hundreds of years. Most of the nightlife is focused in the maze-like backstreets of Shianbashi, a central entertainment district that takes its name from a bridge where men used to stop and ponder whether they should return home or continue on to the pleasure quarters. (It should be noted that there are no records of any men actually turning back.)

For a gentle start to the evening, though, head to Dejima Wharf, where sailboats glide past the quiet waterfront and the lights on the surrounding hillsides twinkle. If location is everything, then Bar R-10 has it all. It’s one of a handful of places to drink on the wharf, but it’s the only one whose daytime business hours are “when the sun is shining and we’re feelin’ good.” We can vouch for the quality of the food, drinks and views, but the live entertainment is a bit hit-and-miss.

A short walk from R-10, mixed in amongst some of the city’s most dreary office buildings, stands a one-room bar with guitars, graffiti and ’70s rock posters on the walls, flags on the ceiling, and enough booze for a very good night out. Welcome to Crazy Horse. There’s a reason the locals—foreigners and Japanese alike—come here week after week: the owner, who’ll often be serving drinks one minute and performing an Eagles cover with his band the next, is as welcoming as they come. If there’s one place in Nagasaki that you shouldn’t miss, this is it.

Nearer the bright lights of Shianbashi is another fixture of the local scene. Bar G Soul boasts floor-to-ceiling views of neon Nagasaki, seasonal fruit cocktails, and DJs playing R&B and hip-hop to a crowd of well-dressed youngsters until 4am. Like most bars, this place is at its best when busy, so make sure to have a quick peek inside first before you go in.

Whether you’re looking for some live music or just a lively atmosphere, there’s no better place than Tin Pan Alley. The house band’s repertoire ranges from Culture Club to Jamiroquai and everything in between, so feel free to make requests. For a taste of something a little different, head to Psybar Space On. This unmarked bar has been designed with the look and feel of a Meiji-era home, so first-timers might hesitate before sliding open the door: only the blue neon sign and loud “Irrashaimase!” distinguish it from the old lady’s house next door. Take your shoes off, watch your head, and step inside to discover an elegant space with views out onto a small Japanese garden. It’s difficult to find, but those who make the effort will be rewarded.

Still not ready for bed? Ayer’s Rock is Nagasaki’s best-known club, and for good reason. It’s been showcasing local musicians here for over ten years, and drawing the best of Nagasaki’s large university crowd all the while. The young clientele ensures that drink prices stay reasonable, and the fun keeps going until the wee hours of the morning.