Originally published on metropolis.co.jp on March 2011
Courtesy of Vegetable Sushi Potager
While the Japanese can be counted among the world’s most open-minded eaters, there are some areas in which they have very little tolerance for change. Anyone who has tried to get a decent California roll in Tokyo knows that, when it comes to sushi, the locals are decidedly purist. So it was with a mix of surprise and curiosity that I entered Potager, which claims to be the world’s first “vegetable sushi specialty restaurant.”
The interior is understated and modern, but incorporates some elements of a traditional sushi joint, including a counter facing an open workspace. During a recent Friday lunch, that counter was populated by a mix of French-, English- and Spanish-speaking expats, a Japanese salaryman and two young Japanese women in kimono.
At lunch, diners can choose from chirashi-zushi (¥1,575) or a set meal featuring ten types of nigiri (¥2,100). The dinner menu offers a choice of two courses (¥5,250 and ¥8,400) that incorporate vegetable sushi and other dishes. Japanese tea is included, but dessert and other drinks must be ordered separately.
As soon as our food arrived, it was clear that one thing Potager excels at is presentation. The chirashi-zushi is a colorful mix of seasoned rice, nine types of vegetables and edible flowers. Flavors are subtle, natural and not overpowered by excessive seasoning. Some might find it all a bit bland, and while I enjoyed the refreshing return to basics, my enthusiasm was waning slightly by the time I reached the end of the bowl.
The nigiri, however, is where Potager really shines. Throwing sushi purism out the window, chef Aya Kakisawa creates innovative combinations from Japanese, European and Asian influences. The order of each set is carefully planned so that the flavors complement rather than compete with each other, moving from light and subtle to more adventurous pairings.
The rose radish sushi with orange sauce made for a tangy and refreshing start to the set. This was followed by a hollowed-out cherry tomato filled with a dollop of risotto that exploded with juicy yet creamy goodness in the mouth.
What stood out among the final five nigiri creations was the extent to which they resembled traditional fish sushi: what looked like tuna was actually a skinless wedge of the freshest, brightest tomato I’d ever eaten, topped with mozzarella and tomato sauce—an inventive take on insalata caprese. The “uni” was in fact a creamy red carrot mousse, and the buttery king oyster mushrooms bore a striking resemblance to scallops. The last item was the most unexpected and least sushi-like of all: a combination of rice, curry, tomato and sour cream that dazzled me with its juxtaposition of creamy, tangy and slightly spicy flavors.
Vegetable Sushi Potager may not be to everyone’s taste, but for diners in search of variety in sushi, it is definitely worth a visit. Vegetarians especially will love it, and a vegan menu is available by advance reservation.
