Originally published on metropolis.co.jp on April 2010
Photo by Sarah Noorbakhsh
Kagurazaka is such an internationally minded neighborhood that European flags flutter all along its quaint little streets. Parting this multicolored parade, we headed to Zagara, an authentic Italian osteria and café just a three-minute walk from the station. Although there’s no shortage of European-themed eateries in this neck of the woods, Zagara may be the one to watch for.
As we entered the dimly lit entryway, we made a note of the cute little outdoor seating area, which would be lovely on a warmer evening. Once inside, we were struck by the subdued decor—terra cotta floors and beige walls—counterbalancing the loud and lively Italian host, who welcomed us with a robust “Buona Sera!” He then led us to a small, red-draped table across from the open kitchen and glass dessert case. After quickly realizing we were not Italian, he began his friendly banter in English, punctuating the chitchat with some light Italian songs.
After a glass of spumante (¥900), we ordered some olives (¥550) and insalata caprese (¥1,400). What hit us right away was the impeccable freshness of the ingredients—the olives had just the right bite, and the mozzarella was the perfect creamy complement to the ripe avocado and cool, crisp tomato. If we had mini Italian flags, we would have been waving them.
The hot dishes sustained our newfound Italian pride. Ricotta and truffle ravioli (¥2,200) featured fresh, delicate pasta with an al dente firmness worthy of the intensely cheesy ricotta and almost sweet tinge of truffle, all given an added edge by the parmesan-sage topping. Some house wine (¥500) was definitely on the cards.
The olive, oregano and tomato pizza (¥1,700)—which was brought to our table directly after being pulled from the flaming oven—continued to thrill. Here, too, the emphasis was on fresh, superior ingredients. A thin, powdery crust topped with heaps of olives and fresh tomato was given a surprising salty zing by some anchovy paste and chunks of fresh herbs. It all added up to a wonderfully authentic taste of Italy.
In fact, that’s the word we kept coming back to during our dinner at Zagara: authenticity. This restaurant doesn’t have the romanticized, grandiose ambience or the quaint kitsch of many European restaurants in Japan. Adding to the friendly feel are the foreign staff, who speak a strange hodgepodge of Italian, English and Japanese. Our fantastic meal culminated in a serving of glorious tiramisu (¥550), fresh and delicious, with dizzying depths of chocolate, cheese and liquor.
As we left Zagara and the staff offered a bold “Arrivederci!,” we felt like we were leaving something truly special behind. Not the idealized notion of Italy so pervasive in Japan, but the real thing. Surely, this flag is securely planted in the ground.
