Is excess an art form? Kinsu Fumiyuki, the chef and owner of the recently opened Censu in Jingumae, believes so. His omakase menu flavorfully flexes a proud aptitude for overabundance. For a mere ¥8,800, diners are met with the deluge that is the 14-course tasting menu. It is equal parts innovative, ambrosial, and entirely overwhelming. Sashimi courses are paired with fresh fruit and dressed in refined, house-made herb oils. Dishes like cheese-stuffed soft-shell crab and caramel-coated corn on the cob dance well outside the confines of the Japanese larder, but Censu’s signature closer, a yakionigiri in abalone dashi topped with seasonal seafood, reels in the freewheeling meal and ties it directly to its kaiseki-inspired roots. A meal at Censu is, inarguably, one of the greatest values in the city right now.
$$$
2-12-9 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku
12 min. walk from Gaiemmae Station
@censu_tokyo