Originally published on metropolis.co.jp on July 2010
Photo by Chris Betros
Born in the north of Italy, Borile went to university in Venice, where she majored in Asian languages and culture. She came to Japan on short trips in 2002 and 2003 to study the language, and returned in 2007 after graduating from college.
“I was in Kyoto teaching Italian, and doing some translations for Italian companies coming to Japan,” she says. “But I was looking for more of a challenge, so I moved to Tokyo and worked for a while at the Italian Chamber of Commerce.”
That’s where she met Elio Orsara, owner of the renowned restaurant Elio Locanda Italiana in Kojimachi. Just over a year ago, the two formed Royal Tirrenian, which imports Italian wine, olive oil, dried tomatoes, tomato sauce and cheese. Borile and Orsara personally selected the products during visits to Italy.
“Even though last year was not the best time to start a new company, we had some positive results,” Borile says. “Elio has a long background here and knows a lot of people. You start with people you know and they introduce you to potential new customers.”
Then came the idea for the website, dubbed Vera Italia, which launched in May. “Quite simply, we wanted to reach the public,” says Borile. “We explain to customers where the products come from, who is producing them and why they are authentic products. We can offer fresh products like mozzarella, salami and ham. Compared to other high-quality Italian products in the market, the price is [similar], but the freshness is much higher because we have them flown to Japan three times a week. You can receive products 2-3 days after you place an order.” For now, the site is only in Japanese, but Borile says an English version will be up around September.
The website is not just aimed at consumers, either. “There are many privately owned restaurants, especially outside Tokyo where the distribution system is not so good,” Borile says. “Often, they cannot get authentic products, so they have to use something that is not Italian.”
When the website held its launch at the Italian Embassy, she was surprised at the positive feedback. “A lot of Japanese people go to Italy and experience regional cuisine there. Then they come back to Japan and are disappointed that they can’t get that same taste here. Japanese consumers have detailed knowledge about Italian products. They are so eager to master information about certain products, and one of the attractions of the website is that we can provide that information, whether it is about how ham is produced, or a specific area of Italy.”
Borile says that for some “Italian” exports like olive oil and Parmesan cheese, only 2-3 percent of products on the market are actually from the country. Just because a label says “Made in Italy” isn’t a guarantee of authenticity. “Even if olive oil is bottled in Italy, it doesn’t mean it comes from Italian olives,” she says.
What about Italian restaurants? “There is an enormous number of Italian flags outside restaurants, although I wouldn’t say they are all authentic Italian. On the other hand, I would say the quality of some Italian restaurants in Tokyo is world-class.”
Any recommendations? “Try La Lettera in Kagurazaka (www.la-lettera.com). It has good food and a very funny and charming Japanese owner who is more Italian than Italians. Another one is La Bicocca (4-5-1 Kamiuma, Setagaya-ku). Beppe, their Italian pizzaiolo, comes from Naples and makes amazing pizzas. I also recommend Trattoria Briccola in Shinjuku-Sanchome (www.briccola.net) and Sol Levante in Aoyama (http://sollevante.jp).”
For more information, see www.veraitalia.jp.
Elio Locanda Italiana: 2-5-2 Kojimachi, Chiyoda-ku. Tel: 03-3239-6771. Open Tue-Sun 11:45am-2:15pm and 5:45-10:15pm, closed Mon. Nearest stn: Hanzomon or Kojimachi. www.elio.co.jp
Chris Betros is the editor of Japan Today (www.japantoday.com)
