Originally published on metropolis.co.jp on November 2010

Il Boccalone

Region: Central
Budget: Antipasto from ¥1,000, primi piatti from ¥1,300, secondi piatti from ¥1,700
Stamp of Authenticity: The menu at this lively Ebisu restaurant is as familiar and comforting as an old armchair. Diners can slip into the likes of Parma ham, fried calamari, grilled scampi, veal Marsala and lemon sorbet. Less familiar but no less delicious is the insalata di polpo con patate (warm salad of octopus and potatoes) and pescespada affumicato (smoked swordfish). Simple grilled entrées range from the day’s fish to wild duck breast to housemade salsiccia.
Signature Dishes: Carpaccio of Japanese beef (¥2,000)
And Keep in Mind: Don’t let the baby-faced waiters fool you—these kids know their stuff. Reservations are always a good idea here, too

*Notable selection of Italian wine

1-15-9 Ebisu, Shibuya-ku. Tel. 03-3449-1430. Open Mon-Sat 5:30-11pm, Sun 5:30-10pm. Nearest stn: Ebisu. www.ilboccalone.com

Elio Locanda Italiana

Region: Calabria
Budget: Course lunches from ¥1,600, dinner from ¥5,500
Stamp of Authenticity: A favorite of the local expat community, this down-home restaurant is run by Elio Orsara, a native of Cetraro who seeks to “offer the truest Italian cuisine, local food culture, and warm hospitality of my grandmother Luigina.” Inside the bustling dining room, handmade pastas and regional Calabrian dishes are served by Italian waiters who treat each customer like a long-lost cousin. It’s no wonder the Italian Chamber of Commerce of Japan once named Elio Locanda the best restaurant in the country.
Signature Dishes:Agnolotti in truffle cream sauce
And Keep in Mind: The staff’s fishing blog (http://eliofishing.blogspot.com) chronicles their weekly seafood-gathering expeditions off the coast of Izu

*Notable selection of Italian wine

2-5-2 Kojimachi, Chiyoda-ku. Tel: 03-3239-6771. Open Mon-Sat 11:45am-2pm and 5:45-10:15pm, closed Sun. Nearest stn: Hanzomon or Yurakucho. www.elio.co.jp

Esse Due

Region: Southern
Budget: Weekday lunch from ¥1,000, dinner primi piatti from ¥1,400, secondi piatti from ¥1,900
Stamp of Authenticity: Rather than rely on a single well-traveled chef, Esse Due insists that all of its staff have experience of working in Italy. The restaurant, split into a first-floor pizzeria and a basement trattoria, aims to recreate the look and feel of an Italian eatery—and, if you can ignore the lunching salarymen, it pulls it off.
Signature Dishes:Margherita pizza (¥1,700); daily fish roast and acqua pazza (¥800/100g and ¥850/100g, respectively) at the downstairs trattoria
And Keep in Mind:If you can’t make it to Akasaka, save it for your next vacation: Esse Due recently opened a branch at Haneda Airport’s new international terminal

6-11-13 Akasaka, Minato-ku. Tel: 03-3585-2232 (pizzeria), 03-3505-5558 (trattoria). Pizzeria open daily 11:30am-3pm and 6-11pm (Sun until 10pm); trattoria open Mon-Fri 11am-2:30pm and 6-11pm, Sun 11:30am-3pm and 6-10pm, closed Sat. Nearest stn: Akasaka, exit 7. www.esse-2.com

Mario i-Sentieri

Region: Tuscany
Budget: Course lunches from ¥1,000; dinner from ¥7,500
Stamp of Authenticity: Celebrity chef Mario Frittoli’s first stand-alone restaurant has been attracting his devoted fans—and winning new ones—since its debut two years ago. The cuisine here is big-flavored and savvy, with a winning rustic feel, and the sleek interior is all class. The seasonally changing menu currently features ricotta-chestnut ravioli with thyme and mushrooms, and roasted filet of beef with sautéed porcini and black-truffle sauce. Chef Frittoli hosts regular tasting events and cooking lessons; see the website for details.
Signature Dishes: Pistachio gnocchi with scampi in asparagus-mascarpone cream (¥2,200); housemade pappardelle with rosemary-seasoned wild-boar ragù (¥2,100)
And Keep in Mind: The “Staub” lunch course, featuring mini-cocotte dishes for just ¥1,000, is a Metropolis staff favorite; the ¥7,500 dinner plan, which includes two antipasti and two pastas, plus entrée and dessert, is one of the best fine-dining deals in the city

*Notable selection of Italian wine

4-1-10 Nishi-Azabu, Minato-ku. Tel: 03-6418-7072. Open Mon-Fri noon-2:30pm and 6pm-midnight, Sat & hols 6pm-midnight, closed Sun. Nearest stn: Hiroo. http://mario-frittoli.com

Tharros

Region: Sardinia
Budget: Course lunches from ¥1,050, dinner antipasti from ¥1,200, primi piatti from ¥1,500, secondi piatti from ¥1,800
Stamp of Authenticity: Owner-chef Keitaro Baba is a snowboard enthusiast who, while working his way through Italy, was seduced by the cuisine and lifestyle of sun-drenched Sardinia. The laidback ethos of that southern island is evident in the vibe of Baba’s Shibuya eatery, where guests can dine in the lively main area or enjoy a glass of wine while noshing on appetizers at the cozy bar facing the open kitchen. Pride of place here goes to the fantastic antipasto assortments, which are available as 5-8 separate dishes for just ¥1,200-¥1,800.
Signature Dishes: Pane guttiau, a traditional Sardinian bread with rosemary (¥450); spaghetti with smoked bottarga (¥2,000); oven-roasted housemade sausage with vegetables (¥2,000)
And Keep in Mind: Enjoy ¥100 espressos while snacking at the counter and watching Baba & co. do their thing

*Notable selection of Italian wine

1-5-2 Dogenzaka, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-5489-8989. Open Mon-Fri 11:30am-3pm and 6pm-midnight, Sat noon-3pm and 6pm-midnight, closed Sun. www.tharros.jp

Il Teatro

Region: Milan
Budget: Course lunches from ¥3,800, dinner from ¥9,800
Stamp of Authenticity: Executive chef Leonardo Di Clemente infuses the menu at this classy hotel restaurant with flavors from his native Bari, a seaside village in the Puglia region of southeastern Italy. Unusually for a formal eatery, Il Teatro is vegetarian-friendly—check out the homemade ravioli with eggplant caponata and pesto—and there are separate menus for kids and teenagers. After dinner, guests can select their grappa from a trolley wheeled out by the staff.
Signature Dishes: Tomato and mozzarella risotto with smoked duck; roasted chicken with eggplant parmigiana and sauteed mushrooms
And Keep in Mind: Il Teatro’s sumptuous main dining hall looks out on Chinzan-so garden—an unbeatable backdrop for a date or other dinner-to-impress

*Notable selection of Italian wine

3F Four Seasons Hotel Tokyo at Chinzan-so, 2-10-8 Sekiguchi, Bunkyo-ku. Tel: 03-3943-2222. Open daily noon-2:30pm and 5:30-10pm. Nearest stn: Edogawabashi (Yurakucho line). www.fourseasons.com/tokyo

Fiorentina

Region: Various
Budget: Course lunches from ¥2,400, dinner from ¥3,800
Stamp of Authenticity: A spacious, inviting restaurant located inside the plush Grand Hyatt Tokyo hotel, Fiorentina serves bread baskets in the morning, panini and light pasta dishes at lunch, and full course menus for dinner. Chef de cuisine Yasuhiro Toshida says he tries to “avoid over-arranging ingredients and keep dishes simple.” The kitchen sources its dry goods directly from Italy, while premium fish, meat and vegetables come from Japan.
Signature Dishes: Linguine carbonara with organic egg, porcini and Italian pancetta (¥2,700); tagliata of Japanese beef (¥3,900)
And Keep in Mind: The neighboring Fiorentina Pastry Boutique serves Italian breads, cakes, pastries and chocolates created by award-winning pastry chefs, which customers can eat in the restaurant or take out

Grand Hyatt Tokyo, 6-10-3 Roppongi, Minato-ku. Tel: 03-4333-8780. Open daily 8:30am-10:30pm. Nearest stn: Roppongi. www.tokyo.grand.hyatt.com