Originally published on metropolis.co.jp on October 2010
Photos by Kohji Shiiki
Ever since indulging in an all-you-can-eat king crab extravaganza in Sapporo, we’ve been on the lookout for similar opportunities in Tokyo. Our search is over: a recent visit to the Ginza branch of Marugoto Hokkaido served up fond memories of that blissful night.
This restaurant is just a three-minute walk from Ginza station on a side street off Harumi Dori. The ambience is casual and understated—shoji screens and lots of beige—but this isn’t a place to come to for the décor. An aquarium filled with various ill-fated sea delicacies is the real showstopper—and we were eager to start devouring.
The á la carte menu features Hokkaido favorites like grilled scallops (¥580), buttered potatoes (¥480) and creamy crab croquettes (¥780). But the all-you-can-eat courses are what really draw people here. There are three options: 90 minutes of queen crab for ¥3,900, queen crab and “hairy” crab for ¥4,500, or ¥5,800 for those two plus king crab. Thanks to a coupon we found online, we got the “Big Three” course for ¥5,400, plus two hours of free-flowing booze for just an extra ¥1,000. It was to be a night for throwing caution to the wind.
The crab was served quickly and didn’t disappoint—we happily relived all those moments of delight from our night in Hokkaido. The three types of shellfish were all subtly different in taste: the queen crab actually had an intense flavor, while the hairy crab was more delicate. The real star, though, had to be the king crab. Foot-long legs filled with the most tender, juicy clumps of crab flesh we’ve ever had. The scissors and other utensils that we were given worked a charm—we nearly squealed in ecstasy each time a complete mound of flesh appeared before us.
The staff at Marugoto responded quickly to our frequent cries of “Sumimasen,” whisking trays of king crab to and fro like pros. The drinks—bottles of Sapporo beer are included in the nomihodai course—were also replenished (and downed) with haste. It was like a night of Roman-style revelry: decadent, freeing, gluttonous.
After four trays of crab and countless drinks, we could barely force down the salad or crab porridge that came with the meal, though both were tasty. The salad, especially, delighted us with more crab, fresh ikura, sweet kernels of corn and tangy dressing. The vanilla ice cream which rounded out the course was the coup de grace—we would, surely, need to be wheeled out of the place.
Marugoto Hokkaido has branches around Tokyo, and coupons from websites like Gourmet Navigator make a usually expensive treat affordable. If you’re in the mood for a night of reckless abandon, find the nearest Marugoto Hokkaido and enjoy the dining and drinking excesses of the North.
