Northern Lights

Northern Lights

Sapporo’s snow and ice festivals brighten up the season

By

Originally published on metropolis.co.jp on January 2014

In collaboration with JapanTravel.com, Metropolis takes you on a winter journey up to the northern end  of Japan.

Snow City

February is the coldest month for much of Japan—and that means a lot of snow. Sapporo has found a way to use all the white stuff to their advantage. For over six decades the city has held one of Japan’s largest winter events—the Sapporo Snow Festival. It all started in 1950, when some high school students made some snow sculptures in Odori Park. Little did they know they were starting an annual event that now brings around two million people from around the world to that very same park.

The Snow Festival stretches out across Odori Park, starting at a large skating rink at the foot of the Sapporo TV tower and spreads out across white snow beneath glittering lights and snow. Sculptors come from around the world to create their grand artworks and to represent their countries  in the International Snow Sculpture Contest.

Some of the largest, most intricate pieces aren’t part of the contest, but are in the nearby Snow Aquarium. Recent entries have included Mickey Mouse from Fantasia, the National Palace Museum from Taiwan, the Taj Mahal and Tsuruga Castle. It’s incredible to see the amount of detail that goes into  monstrously large sculptures even though the creators know they’ll only last a week.

Winter Playground

If you need to get out of the bitter wind for a while, head to the Tsudome, a family-oriented site with both indoor and outdoor activities. Warm up with Hokkaido specialties in the food court or let the kiddies take a spin on the mini shinkansen. Outdoor fun includes snow slides, sledding and snowmobiles. Open 9am-5pm during the festival.

Frozen Festival

Another must-see event is the Susukino Ice Festival on the main street in Sapporo’s red light district—which is very reminiscent of Kabukicho’s restaurants, bars and clubs. Just a ten-minute walk from Odori Park, it’s an extension of the Snow Festival, except all the sculptures are made of ice.

The best time to visit the Ice Festival is in the evening when the sun goes down and Susukino comes to life. The neon lights of the izakaya, hostess bars and karaoke parlors light up the ice sculptures as revelers crowd the streets and meet contestants in the Susukino Queen of Ice beauty contest. When you’re ready for a break, the street is home to several ice bars, where everything from the bar stools to the beer mugs are carved out of frozen water.

Sapporo Snacks

The pathway winding through the sculptures is lined with hot drinks and food. The specialties in Hokkaido are potatoes, lamb, seafood and, of course, Sapporo beer. Some hot citrus sake served at many of the stands is a good way to stay warm. You’ll need to drink it fast though, as your cup will be cold within seconds of hitting the air.

While you’re there

The Nijo Fish Market in Sapporo is what Tsujiki Fish Market is to Tokyo. Though it’s much smaller in size, it’s still a great place to get fresh seafood, such as uni-ikura don, Hokkaido crab and other local produce right in the heart of Sapporo.

The market is open from 7am to 6pm though individual market restaurants have their own opening hours. Nijo Market is about a five-minute walk from Odori station, one stop from Sapporo station along the Nanboku subway line.

Essentials

Even with all the crowds, the air in Sapporo can be bitterly cold and visiting the festival means you’ll be exposed to snow flurries and winter winds. In addition to a good, waterproof coat, bring knitted caps and scarves to wrap around your face.

Other necessities for  Hokkaido in the winter are grips to attach to the bottom of your boots so you don’t fall on the ice and kairo (heat packs) to keep in your pockets or stick to your undergarments. It’s best to go prepared, but most essentials can be found at almost any convenient store in the area.

Getting There

The 65th Sapporo Snow Festival runs February 5-11. JR, buses and taxis can take you from New Chitose Airport to Odori Park. The JR Airport Express (¥1,040 adults; ¥520 children) runs every 15 minutes and reaches Sapporo station in 36 minutes.

For more info on the Snow Festival, visit www.snowfes.com/english and  www.japantravel.com