Originally published on metropolis.co.jp on March 2010

Hailing from the seafood-rich north of Japan, Otaru Ginza (Pola Ginza Building 10F, 1-7-7 Ginza, Chuo-ku; www.masazushi.co.jp) is the first local branch of a 72-year-old Hokkaido sushi restaurant. Belly up to the L-shaped counter to watch the chefs work their magic, or enjoy some private time with friends and colleagues in one of the semi-private rooms. In addition to the sushi, Otaru’s specialties include ika somen—thin, noodle-like strips of squid served with a shoyu-based dipping sauce—and extra-large botan-ebi shrimp with miso. Lunch plans start at ¥2,100 for the nine-plate “Kiku” set, while nighttime course menus range from ¥5,500-¥10,000; a la carte plates start at just ¥250. chefs buy their tuna whole, and they also carve up rare varieties of fish, like the prized Keiji salmon. Hokkaido-made shochu and wine are also available, as is local sake that’s shipped in daily from Otaru.