Originally published on metropolis.co.jp on December 2007

Photos Courtesy of Kasumi Dining

Western-style steakhouses face an uphill battle in Tokyo. Not only is American beef blacklisted because of the BSE scare, but restaurants like Tony Roma’s, Lawry’s the Prime Rib and Outback Steakhouse must compete with Japan’s homegrown wagyu—perhaps the finest red meat in the world.

But as Roppongi’s Oak Door and Nishi-Azabu’s Porterhouse Steaks prove, the Japanese have a healthy appetite for thick, juicy—and expensive— steaks from overseas. That’s why the arrival of Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse, one of America’s most renowned chains, seems so right. Located in the power corridor of Kasumigaseki and taking pride of place in the attractive new Kasumi Dining complex, this restaurant seemed poised to become a mecca for meat lovers.

After a couple of visits, however, we’re not so sure.

The first thing that strikes you about Ruth’s is the casual, upbeat interior—which would be fine in a family restaurant, but seems an ill-fitting backdrop for serious steaks and wines. Absent are the ultra-dim lights and refined touches that greet navy-suited power lunchers at such celebrated American steakhouses as Morton’s and Smith & Wollensky. Instead, the interior invites all comers—and, in fact, during a recent midweek dinner, a young family was noisily perched at the booth next to us.

The service, too, could do with a dose of sobriety. Instead of sure-footed waiters manning the floor with an air of stately competence, Ruth’s offers up bubbly college-age servers whose enthusiasm is admirable but whose handling of our sizzling-hot plates was sometimes shaky.

Luckily, when it comes to what’s actually on the plates, these faults are forgiven. The steakhouse’s basic filet (11oz, ¥8,000) is a gorgeous piece of tender beef that sits proudly in its bed of hot butter. Ruth’s serves up mostly Australian beef but also some USDA Prime, and the kitchen offers all the cuts that enthusiasts expect: NY strip (12oz, ¥8,000; 16oz, ¥10,000), rib-eye (12oz, ¥8,000; 16oz, ¥10,000), and, for ambitious eaters, a two-person porterhouse (¥25,000). Classic chophouse fare like lobster (market price) and lamb chops (¥5,500) also make an appearance.

Photos Courtesy of Kasumi Dining

Ruth’s appetizers and side dishes will also please the steak-house purist. The shrimp cocktail (¥2,100) consists of jumbo boiled shrimp, cocktail sauce—and little else. Crab-stuffed mushrooms (¥1,900) taste of their simple ingredients, and the butter they’re sautéed in. Potatoes can be ordered mashed, baked, julienned, or au gratin (all ¥950). One of our steakhouse tests is how the kitchen handles simple sautéed mushrooms (¥950), and Ruth’s pass muster—the perfect accompaniment to hearty steak. The only disappointment was the Ruth’s Chop Salad (¥1,600), whose blue-cheese dressing was boldly flavored but whose portion was too skimpy. This was remedied by the fantastic array of desserts (¥1,200-¥1,800), all of which are jaw-droppingly large and uniformly sweet and delicious.

Is there room for improvement at Ruth’s Chris? Certainly. Will it succeed in the crowded Tokyo meat market? We hope so. But by offering top-notch steaks and side dishes, this new restaurant at least gets the basics right.