Originally published on metropolis.co.jp on September 2010

While people in mainland Japan prepare themselves for the cold days and typhoons of autumn, the Yaeyama Islands are still enjoying late summer. Swimming and outdoor fun are at their peak, as the intense heat of midsummer starts to cool down.

Located less than four hours from Tokyo and just over two from Osaka, the Yaeyama Archipelago is Japan with a true tropical feeling. It’s closer than overseas destinations in Southeast Asia, making it the ideal spot to escape for a weekend—or longer. You’ll find no giant buildings poking up into gray clouds; instead, blue skies surround a chain of islands where relaxed people enjoy a laidback and happy life.

The Yaeyamas consist of nine inhabited islands: Ishigaki, Iriomote, Taketomi, Kohama, Kuro, Aragusuku, Hateruma, Hatoma and Yonaguni. The archipelago’s unique feature is that it’s all easily accessible via the gateway that is Ishigaki Port in Ishigaki City. From there, boats linking all the islands depart every 10-15 minutes, reaching their destination in anywhere from ten minutes (Taketomi) to four hours (Yonaguni).

Because of their natural beauty and carefree atmosphere, the Yaeyama Islands have for decades charmed millions of mainland Japanese visitors. Islands like Taketomi remind harried city dwellers what life was like in ancient Japan, with one-story, red-tiled houses that dot the landscape lending a feeling of having traveled back in time. But over the years, the locals have learned to adapt to modern times—and the fun that comes with it.

Indeed, the Yaeyama Islands are renowned not only for the fantastic scenery, but also for the good times you’ll find there. Although Ishigaki’s Kabira Bay—a Michelin Green Guide Japan 3-star location—and the marvelous Kondoi beach on Taketomi attract their share of visitors year round, each of the nine islands of the Yaeyama chain has developed its own unique style.

Ishigaki, gateway to Yaeyama

Overlooking Nagura Bay, this theme park introduces the “Oldies but Goodies” aspect of Ishigaki and the “Yaima” chain (which is how the locals pronounce Yaeyama). A re-creation of a traditional village complete with private dwellings, the park is a haven of peace filled with the melodies of the local three-string guitar known as the sanshin. Visitors can enjoy concerts and dance shows featuring traditional music, and there’s even a restaurant serving local cuisine prepared with the best of Yaeyama’s ingredients.

In addition to cultural attractions, Ishigaki Yaima Village is home to the Nagura Anparu mangroves, a restful spot that’s registered with the Ramsar Convention on Wetlands.

Information available at www.yaimamura.com. Phone: 0980-82-8798. Fax: 0980-83-4620. Email: yoyaku@yaimamura.com. Traditional music and performing arts shows take place at 10am, 1pm and 4pm.

Minsah Kogei Kan
Yaeyama Minsah is a style of local weaving that’s characterized by a 5 x 4 splashed pattern. It is said to have originated when a woman wove this pattern into her lover’s stiff sash and offered it as a gift—in Japanese wordplay, “5 x 4” can be spoken as itsu no yo, or “forever.”

Textile manufacturer Minsah Kogeikan offers a wide range of contemporary Yaeyama Minsah products that fit modern needs. Visitors to their headquarters in Ishigaki can observe the hand-manufacturing process in person, and there’s also an exhibition room where you can learn more about Okinawan-style dyeing, weaving and Minsah fabric. Enthusiasts can even join the workshops and create their own unique Minsah weave!

Information available at www.minsah.co.jp. Phone: 0980-82-3473. Fax: 0980-83-4066. Workshops start at ¥1,000 and range from 30 minutes to half a day. Reservations required.

Ishigaki Limestone cave
The Ishigaki Limestone cave was formed out of the surrounding coral about 200,000 years ago—and today, it’s a natural attraction that’s not to be missed. This mystical spot features pure white stalactites and clear springs that allow visitors to experience the healing sound of flowing water. Welcome to an underground world with many strangely shaped formations… and don’t miss the world’s first limestone cave illumination! The restaurant within the facility offers delicious cuisine prepared with seasonal ingredients from Ishigaki Island.

Information available at www.ishigaki-cave.com. Phone: 0980-83-1550. E-mail: ishigaki@gyokusendo.co.jp. Open 9am-6:30pm (last entry 6pm). Entrance fee: ¥1,050 (adults), ¥525 (kids).

Taketomi island transport
Lying to the extreme southeast of Okinawa’s main island, Taketomi is a paradise of many beauties: transparent water and sky spreading into infinity, vivid colors of local flowers, and old fashioned, peaceful red-tiled-roof houses. No wonder all visitors are charmed!

But for those seeking more treasures than the obvious ones, put yourself in the capable hands of the veteran drivers at Taketomi Island Transport, who offer a variety of shuttle and sightseeing services.

Information available at www.taketomijimakotsu.info. Phone: 0980-85-2154. Fax: 0980-85-2112. Email: takeko@mountain.ocn.ne.jp.

Kabira Marine Services
Kabira Bay is considered one of Japan’s 100 most beautiful nature spots, and it’s been chosen by the Michelin Green Guide Japan as a 3-star sightseeing destination. In addition to the white sand beach and black pearl farm, visitors can enjoy an excursion on a glass-bottomed boat operated by Kabira Marine Services. For a truly magnificent adventure, discover an underwater world where tropical fish live in coral reefs!

Information available at www.kabiramarine.com. Phone: 0980-88-2335. Fax: 0980-88-2499. Email: kabiramarine@peace.ocn.ne.jp. Open 9am-5pm. Boats depart every 15 minutes year round (cancellation may occur in case of bad weather). Excursion time: 30 minutes. Price: ¥1,000 (adults), ¥500 (kids).

Tom Sawyer
The Yaeyama Islands boast one of the greatest strings of coral reefs in the whole world, and the perfect way to explore them is by snorkeling and diving in local waters. Off Ishigaki Island, for instance, it’s even possible to dive with manta rays—surely, every diver’s dream. But the best part is, you don’t even need a lot of experience… or even know how to swim! Tom Sawyer’s experienced staff will guide you to meet tropical fish and enjoy a 100 percent “touching” experience. And if you are looking for more of a challenge, just leave it to them. According to your level of ability and experience, Tom Sawyer’s staff will guide you to an area that meets your expectations. Would you rather stay dry? Then enjoy an early evening cruising tour, and kick back while taking in southern Japan’s mesmerizing sunset.

Information available at www.ishigaki-tomsawyer.jp. Phone: 0980-83-4677. Fax: 0980-83-4790. Email: tomsawyr@guitar.ocn.ne.jp.