Originally published on metropolis.co.jp on March 2009

Photos by Alfie Goodrich

Toriromeo is one of those places that you want to visit because everyone inside looks like they’re having such a good time. Located just off Yokohama’s Motomachi shopping street, this tiny pub with a big front window is a beloved neighborhood hangout.

Toriromeo’s boyish owner-chef, Satoshi-san, previously worked at the renowned Bincho in Roppongi, but here at his new place, he’s in total control. The nine-person counter rarely lacks customers, which means the chef is in constant motion: skewering meat, uncorking wine, clearing dishes, flipping yakitori sticks.

On a recent Saturday evening—we had to make reservations for 7pm because Toriromeo was completely booked later on—the place was filled with young couples enjoying grilled chicken and wine (the bar’s motto, in fact, is “Yakitori et vin”). A blackboard on the wall behind the counter lists about 20 bottles, mostly French and mostly around ¥5,000. The very decent house varieties (¥700 by the glass) change frequently according to Satoshi’s whim. On our visit, the white was a Saint-Bris sauvignon blanc and the red was from Cotes du Rhone—straightforward wines to go with the elemental, crowd-pleasing food. We enjoyed them so much that we didn’t get any farther down the list, which the owner compiles based on “what he likes to drink.” The beer menu is also above average, with generously poured Hoegaarden for ¥700 and bottled brews like Leffe Blonde (¥700), Heartland (¥650) and Kronenbourg (¥650).

The food menu is a handwritten card propped on the counter, supplemented by a list of daily specials. All the usual skewers are on offer, including momo, negima, sasami and tsukune (from ¥300). These last two are particular standouts: the tsukune is a crunchy mix of chopped meat and ground bone seasoned with shiso and oba leaves, and the velvety sasami comes dabbed with ume or wasabi.

Satoshi’s Francophile tendencies extend beyond the wine list. He sources duck from France and serves it yakitori-style, with a touch of Dijon mustard (¥500). His take on raclette is a skewered block of cheese that requires considerable dexterity to grill. It’s served as a semi-melted mass that’s pure indulgence.

As the night wore on, a few lucky passersby were able to snag a spot at the counter, but most others had to content themselves with a glimpse of the conviviality within. It’s best not to leave these things to chance, so you should probably call ahead.