Originally published on metropolis.co.jp on October 2012

A charming collection of cafés litters the shotengai “Koenji Look,” on the south side of the JR station towards Omekaido avenue. Perhaps the most intriguing is Nanatsumori Koenji Café (2-20-20 Koenji-minami, Suginami-ku; Tel: 03-3318-1398), a hangout for local musicians and creative types for 40 years. The antique furniture—some of which seems almost medieval—lines a cosy interior with bric and brac, and giant matchboxes on each table. Sample cocktails and coffees, famous cakes, and fabulous curries that range from Japanese style to occasional Thai or semi-Indian and come with rice, salad and a cup of nourishing soup (¥1,050).