Originally published on metropolis.co.jp on May 2009
Marie Wanibe
Café Ano is one of just three restaurants in Japan that specialize in Czech dishes—and the only one in Tokyo. Though it’s situated along a gray stretch of road between Shibuya, Harajuku and Aoyama, the warm lights from the long, narrow windows make it inviting to passersby. And once inside the restaurant, Czech culture surrounds you.
The question probably comes to mind: what is Czech food? Influences from neighboring Austria, Hungary and Germany and even Turkey accent the robust, Bohemian dishes. Potatoes, rice, meat and sauerkraut are indispensable ingredients, as are hearty sauces and, especially, dumplings. At Café Ano, two Czech chefs offer a range of such typical tastes.
Try starting with the Czech beer, Budějovický Budvar (¥750), as famous in Europe as the American Budweiser that’s named after it. For an appetizer, order the utopenec (“drowned man,” ¥950)—a single sausage marinated with herbs and vinegar, split in half with sliced pickles sandwiched in between like a hotdog. Sautéed onions are scattered on top with bay leaf and parsley sprinkles.
Café Ano’s signature dish, bramborak (pan-fried potato pancakes), is typical home-style fare that every Czech family makes in their own way. Bramborak with Camembert cheese (¥1,400) is served with colorful sweet-and-sour vegetables—shredded carrots, sunny lettuce, sliced cucumbers and red cabbage—plus tartar sauce, a wedge of raw tomato, and parsley. Reminiscent of okonomiyaki, the dumpling’s crunchy outside gives way to the tender potato and melted Camembert inside. Bramborak can also be enjoyed in a thinner version with sausage and sauerkraut (¥1,400).
Other main dishes include Czech-style risotto (¥1,300), with rice colored and flavored with red paprika, and beef stew with a choice of bread dumplings or petit bramborak (¥1,600).
The Czech Republic has a long and worthy tradition of desserts, and a nice way to finish a hearty meal at Café Ano is with the simple tace (¥700), a cake with fruit and nuts, or the barbovka (¥700 yen), a Czech-style marble cake. Both are served with whipped cream and raspberry sauce.
Café Ano’s interior is reminiscent of a European country house, with lots of wood and comfortable Czech acoustic music in the background. Some of the decorations are for sale, like handmade marionettes (¥4,200) and little wooden puppet magnets (¥840). If you want to experience more Czech culture, Café Ano offers a “Czech Anime Show” every month; classic, live jazz and acous
