Getting Zesty

February 16, 2012

Getting Zesty

Beat the flu—do the yuzu

By

Originally published on metropolis.co.jp on February 2012

Part grapefruit, part orange, part lemon—it’s hard to describe exactly what yuzu tastes like. Ever since my first mug of yuzu tea, I have been on a quest to sample it in all its forms. Now, in the winter months, when infection is rife, it’s doubly refreshing to know that this distinctive citrus has got your back.

The yuzu plant came over from China around the 8th century, ending up mostly in Shikoku. The small lemon-sized fruit ripens to its familiar deep yellow in autumn, when it is harvested—meaning it’s often associated with winter foods.

It makes sense that one of the most cold-resistant citrus varieties is widely thought to help protect against colds and viruses. Added to its vitamin C properties, proponents also cite anti-bacterial qualities. Its oil is said to have a calming effect on the mind, and is used in aromatherapy to ease stress and anxiety.

In the last decade, the fruit has found a following among bartenders and chefs in the US, as an exotic twist on classic citrus choices. Its rarity there has led at least one bartender to proclaim it the “beluga caviar of the citrus world.” So take advantage of being in Japan, where it literally grows on trees.
One of the best-known uses of yuzu in Japanese folk medicine is in the bath—it’s customary to add the whole or cut fruit to the water when you bathe during toji (winter solstice). As well as warding off disease, yuzu baths also stimulate circulation, and ease arthritis, rheumatism, and general aches and pains. In a nod to this Japanese custom, Joule Spa & Wellness, at the Hyatt Regency Tokyo [pictured], offers a seasonal treatment package that uses yuzu-based products. Their Winter Beauty Spa Package is available until February 29.

If you prefer your yuzu in liquid form, bottled drinks are available year-round, and can be found in conbini and vending machines everywhere. Yuzu-flavored shochu, or yuzushu, can be ordered up in bars and cafés, and even made at home, with recipes easily Googleable. Inevitably, the fruit has also popped up in currently popular collagen beauty drinks that promise to give your skin a healthy glow and slow the aging process.

Think about all of the soba and nabe you’ve eaten: it is very likely that small slices of yuzu peel have made an appearance to add a refreshing citrus flavor to the dishes. The Onyasai chain of shabu-shabu restaurants offers a yuzu-collagen dashi in which to swish your meat. Naturally, as with all things collagen, it is especially recommended for women. If you haven’t seen it in your soup, look for it in tsukune (chicken meatballs) or accompanying daikon in a salad—both showcase the unique flavor well.

Yuzu rind is the key ingredient in yuzukosho, or yuzu pepper, where it is mixed with salt and chili. Until recently, this green seasoning has been hard to find outside its home in Kyushu, but more companies are now producing it. It is used as a condiment for nabe, yakitori, and an ever-increasing variety of foods—even spaghetti and potato chips. Naturally, there is a yuzukosho-flavored Kit Kat available in Kyushu.

Turning from savory to sweet, the traditional confection yubeshi was first made around the 12th century. Known as maru-yubeshi in this early form, it was made by steaming a hollow yuzu stuffed with rice powder, miso, and other ingredients. This preserved the contents and made them portable. While yuzu is now more commonly a flavoring for yubeshi than a casing, maru-yubeshi is still made in Wajima, Ishikawa Prefecture. Because of its labor-intensive process, the confection is rare and expensive, but definitely worth it.

Whether you bathe in it, inhale it, drink it, or eat it—yuzu is one way to finish the winter with no lack in the zest department.