Originally published on metropolis.co.jp on April 2012

Just by Koenji station is dumpling paradise Marugyo (4-28-10 Koenji-Minami, Suginami-ku, www.marugyo.jp/shop), where handmade parcels (from ¥300 for six) include the signature gyoza of premium pork with ginger and cabbage. The sui (boiled) gyoza is thick and chewy and served with a tasty sesame dipping sauce, into which soup is poured at the end for drinking purposes. Try also the fried negibaka gyoza—with a lightness defying their fried nature—which come with mountains of subtle-tasting scallions on top.