Originally published on metropolis.co.jp on November 2010

In some ways, Japanese and Italian food have a lot in common: a dedication to using the freshest produce, a preference for simple seasonings, an unswerving love of seafood. But for decades, Tokyo had only a handful of Italian restaurants worthy of the name, bright points in a wasteland of ersatz pizza and overcooked spaghetti. How things change. When Metropolis set out to compile a list of the best Italian restaurants in town, we forgot the old proverb, non fare il passo piu lungo della gamba—don’t bite off more than you can chew. Here’s the opening gambit in our survey of Tokyo’s signature ristorante, but rest assured: there’ll be plenty more to come.

Il Mulino

Region Southern
Budget Lunch from ¥3,800, dinner from ¥6,800
Stamp of Authenticity The original Il Mulino, founded in New York City in 1981 by two brothers from Abruzzo, has been rated the Big Apple’s favorite Italian eatery by Zagat guides 19 years running. The Tokyo branch faithfully reproduces the look, style, feel—and, most importantly, the menu
Signature Dishes: Beef carpaccio (¥3,150); Milanese veal cutlet (¥6,720); zabaglione (¥1,890)
And keep in mind… Il Mulino is an expat favorite, so expect to hear just as much Italian and English as Japanese being spoken in the dining room

*Notable selection of Italian wine

Keyakizaka Dori, 6-12-4 Roppongi, Minato-ku. Tel: 03-5786-0337. Open daily 11:30am-2pm and 6-10:30pm (lounge until 3am). Nearest stn: Roppongi. www.ilmulinonewyork.jp

Dogenzaka #202

Region: Various
Budget: À la carte dishes from ¥580, course dinners from ¥3,000 with nomihodai from ¥2,000
Stamp of Authenticity: Chef Yoshinori Konno took in all of Italy’s traditional techniques while training around the country, then honed his skills working in some of Tokyo’s top kitchens, including Silverado in Ginza and La Bisboccia in Hiroo
Signature Dishes: Fritter assortment of shrimp, squid, scallop and wakasagi smelt (¥1,260); creamy risotto with porcini mushrooms (¥1,500); veal cutlets with rucola, parmesan and roma tomatoes (¥1,890)
And keep in mind… This cozy hideaway, housed in a renovated apartment off Dogenzaka, is like the lush living room you wish you had. If you order just one dish, don’t miss the risotto—it’s served from a hollowed-out wheel of parmesan cheese, allowing the rice to get properly coated

#202 Naruse Bldg, 2-28-11 Dogenzaka, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-5457-1202. Open Tue-Thu & Sun 5:30pm-midnight, Fri-Sat 5:30pm-3am, closed Mon. Nearest stn: Shibuya. http://r.gnavi.co.jp/g337701/

Piacere

Region: Tuscany (& others)
Budget: Lunch from ¥4,500, dinner from ¥10,000
Stamp of Authenticity: Head chef Paolo Pelosi, a Tuscan native, has worked in Michelin-starred restaurants like the celebrated Onice Lounge in Florence. His cheese trolley groans under the weight of what must be Tokyo’s best range of formaggio, and the daily selection of hand-sliced San Danielle and Culatello hams is prepared individually for each customer
Signature Dishes: Rare-in-Tokyo varieties of pasta such as pici, a Tuscan specialty, and seasonal ravioli that reflect the chef’s devotion to Italian ingredients prepared simply
And keep in mind… A seasonally rotating four-course lunch menu focuses on various regions of Italy (¥4,500), and diners can select a tasting of wines from the same region (plus ¥2,500)

*Notable selection of Italian wine

28F Shangri-La Hotel, Tokyo, Marunouchi Trust Tower Main, 1-8-3 Marunouchi,
Chiyoda-ku. Tel: 03-6739-7898. Open Mon-Fri 6:30-10am, 11:30am-2:30pm and 6-10pm, Sat-Sun & hols 7-10:30am, noon-2:30pm and 6-10pm. Nearest stn: Tokyo. www.shangri-la.jp/english/

Isola

Region: Naples (& others)
Budget: Pizza from ¥1,700, pasta from ¥1,600, fish & meat dishes from ¥2,200
Stamp of Authenticity: Isola’s pizzas are made from flour, salt and cheese imported straight from Naples, with highly prized San Marzano tomatoes for the sauce, then baked in a wood-fired oven custom-built by Napolitans. What more do you want?
Signature Dishes: Margherita pizza (¥1,900); macellaio pizza (¥2,600)
And keep in mind… The out-of-the-way location on a Shirokanedai backstreet makes for an intimate dining experience, but it’s done nothing to keep the crowds away

*Notable selection of Italian wine

6-17-2 Shirokane, Minato-ku. Tel: 03-5447-2733. Open Mon-Fri 11am-3pm (L.O. 2pm) and 6-11:30pm (L.O. 10:30pm), Sat-Sun & hols 11:30am-3:30pm (L.O. 3pm) and 6-11pm (L.O. 10pm). Nearest stn: Ebisu. www.isola.st/isola

Ristorante Yamazaki

Region: Northern (& others)
Budget: Weekday lunch from ¥2,625 (¥4,200 on Sat & hols), dinner from ¥8,400
Stamp of Authenticity: Junko Yamazaki poached a Japanese chef from Ristorante Gualtiero Marchesi, Italy’s first three-star Michelin restaurant, to front her new Tokyo eatery back in 1986. Current chef Ryo Takatsuka worked for over ten years in Italy himself, including six years at the two-star Perbellini in Verona
Signature Dishes:Insalata di spaghetti with caviar (¥4,200 extra with course menu); chef’s special risotto (¥5,775 extra with course menu)
And keep in mind… Yamazaki worked for Louis Vuitton Japan before moving into the restaurant business. Now nearly 25 years old, her restaurant tends to draw a more mature crowd, though it hasn’t succumbed to the complacency of some of its peers

*Notable selection of Italian wine

2F West Aoyama Garden, 1-22-10 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku. Tel: 03-3479-4657. Open Mon-Sat 11:30am-2pm and 6-9:30pm, closed Sun (except before hols) & Tue if Mon is a holiday. Nearest stn: Nogizaka. www.ristorante-yamazaki.jp

AUREOLE

Region: Various
Budget: Lunch from ¥1,000, dinner from ¥3,800
Stamp of Authenticity:Each year, Aureole’s chef travels to Italy to hone his skills and study the latest culinary developments
Signature Dishes: Chef’s special wild boar with handmade pici noodles (¥1,380), organic brown rice risotto al quattro formaggi (¥1,680), whole-wheat-crust pizza topped with black truffles and mushrooms (¥1,680)
And keep in mind… Aureole’s wine selection is all about high quality and value for money, so prices are kept reasonable. Be sure to snag a seat on the terrace to take in the views of nearby Shinjuku Gyoen

*Notable selection of Italian wine

1-3-12 Shinjuku. Tel: 03-3355-8447. Open Tue-Fri 11:30am-3pm and 5:30-11pm, Sat 11:30am-4:30pm and 5:30-11pm, Sun & hols 11:30am-4:30pm and 5:30-10pm, closed Mon. Nearest stn: Shinjuku-Gyoenmae. www.aureole.ne.jp

Pinosalice

Region: Southern
Budget: Weekday lunch from ¥950 (¥1,200 on Sat & hols), dinner from approx ¥4,000
Stamp of Authenticity:Chef Reiko Yanagi learned her art in Sicily and Puglia, including a stint at a two-star Michelin restaurant. The cuisine is accented by deft selections from wine and dessert coordinator Kyoko Akamatsu
Signature Dishes: Daily fish selection, stewed in the South Italian style (from ¥1,800); grilled meat and seasonal vegetable platters (from ¥2,000 and ¥1,600, respectively)
And keep in mind… There’s no wine list: the staff prefer to recommend a variety of vino, and you’re encouraged to sample each before ordering. The antipasto selections are a good place to start at dinnertime

*Notable selection of Italian wine

15-10 Uguisudani-cho, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-3496-3555. Open Mon-Wed 11:30am-3:30pm and 6pm-midnight (L.O. 10:30pm), Sat & hols 11:30am-3:30pm and 5pm-midnight (L.O. 10:30pm), closed Sun. Nearest stn: Shibuya, west exit. www.eatpia.com/pinosalice

Da Isa

Region: Naples
Budget: All pizzas ¥1,000 on weekday lunch, from ¥1,500 at dinner
Stamp of Authenticity: The trophies and medals lining the walls are a testament to chef Hisanori Yamamoto’s pizza-making talents: he picked up prizes at the World Pizza Cup in Naples for three years running. The handsome Shizuoka native has also done time in the kitchen of legendary Napolitan eatery Il Pizzaiolo del Presidente, as patronized by Bill Clinton. He opened his own restaurant back in February, and it’s been packed-out ever since
Signature Dishes: Margherita D.O.C. pizza (¥2,250); ripieno al forno pizza (¥2,200); pizza fritta da erne (¥2,200)
And keep in mind… Da Isa is one of the only places in town that serves sourdough pizzas

*Notable selection of Italian wine

1-28-9 Aobadai, Meguro-ku. Tel: 03-5768-3739. Open Tue-Sun & hols 11:30am-2:30pm and 5:30-10:30pm, closed Mon. Nearest stn: Nakameguro. www.da-isa.jp

Bice

Region: Various
Budget: Lunch from ¥3,675, dinner from ¥9,450
Stamp of Authenticity: The original Bice restaurant has been a towering presence on the Milan dining scene since it opened in 1926, and its Tokyo branch doesn’t miss a beat. Key ingredients are imported direct from Italy, but executive chef Andrea Brambilla is also a dab hand at sourcing the best seasonal produce from around Japan
Signature Dishes: Traditional Milanese-style pan-fried veal cutlet (¥6,510); spaghetti tossed with raw sea urchin (¥3,570), a popular staple in Sicily
And keep in mind… The six-course Puccini dinner (¥12,600) uses seasonal ingredients in everything from the entrée to dessert. The food is complemented by the Italian sommelier’s selections from the Bice wine cellar, which change every month

*Notable selection of Italian wine

47F Caretta Shiodome, 1-8-1 Higashi-Shimbashi, Minato-ku. Tel: 03-5537-1926. Open Mon-Fri 11:30am-3:30pm (L.O. 2pm) and 5:30-11:30pm (L.O. 10pm), Sat-Sun & hols 11:30am-3:30pm (L.O. 2pm) and 5-11:30pm (L.O. 10pm). Nearest stn: Shiodome or Shimbashi. www.bicetokyo.com/eng