Originally published on metropolis.co.jp on June 2010

High taxes in Japan mean that beer prices are among the most expensive in the world. That’s the main reason why Japanese brewers offer a never-ending array of low-malt beverages, which are taxed at far lower rates, making them more affordable to the masses seeking cool refreshment during hot weather.

Although the use of ingredients other than 100 percent malt makes these brews cheaper, they still possess an interesting variety of flavors. I have chosen six that offer a fair range of tastes and represent a good “six pack” to get you started. All are available in standard 350ml and 500ml cans, selling for about ¥140 and ¥200, respectively. If there are several stores near you, it pays to check around, as prices can vary a bit from place to place.

Photos by Kohji Shiiki

Suntory claims this brew contains a blend of seven varieties of hops, so naturally I was interested. After searching the label and Suntory’s website, though, I couldn’t find out which hops have been used, other than that they are from the Czech Republic, Germany, Japan and North America. And after tasting Relax, I decided it doesn’t really matter, since the hop flavor is not that pronounced or well-defined anyway. What this brew offers is a crisp and refreshing flavor with a nice hit of bracing hop bitterness. Though there’s still a bit of the watery tang common to low-malt beers, this one is recommended if you’re a fan of hops.

Name: 1000
Brewer: Kirin
Alcohol content: 5%

This brew is made from mineral-enriched water, and the result is a more quenching sensation—though, somehow, the minerals don’t seem to accelerate the alcohol buzz. Still, when served well-chilled, 1000 is brisk and bracing, giving the brew an overall dry and refreshing character. This would be particularly welcome on very hot days, I’d imagine. The flavor is largely beer-like, with a quick, short finish that doesn’t linger in the mouth. Instead, it suggests to your tongue and throat that you take another hearty gulp.

Name: Mugi to Hop
Brewer: Sapporo
Alcohol content: 5%

In its TV ads, Sapporo implies that Mugi to Hop is “often mistaken for beer.” More than a few people would likely disagree. That said, for brews in this category, it has a rather rich flavor, perhaps one that you’d even find attractive. There is a certain roundness to the overall flavor, with just the right amount of hop bitterness. Maybe there is some truth to the ads after all—this brew does seem to taste more like beer than the others.

Name: Kinu no Zeitaku
Brewer: Suntory
Alcohol content: 6%

This was a surprise—one of the richest tasting low-malt brews I’ve found. Kinu no Zeitaku is a limited-edition offering from Suntory’s Kyoto brewery, and seems to have popped up at a number of convenience stores around town. It has a very soft mouthfeel and is exceptionally smooth, making it a bit of a danger in light of its higher 6 percent alcohol content. Most importantly, it has a full, complex flavor that hints at Belgian white beers.

Name: Strong Off
Brewer: Asahi
Alcohol content: 7%

The concept is a bit hard to follow—a low-carb brew with high alcohol. The result is a powerful yet simple flavor, not exactly “rich” but a bit nutty tasting, and certainly more interesting than the average low-malt brew. Not surprisingly, it shares one characteristic common to nearly all Asahi beers: there is little hop aroma, and only the bitterness from the hops remains.

Name: Five Star
Brewer: Sapporo
Alcohol content: 5.5%

This one turned up at my local convenience store and, after trying it, I couldn’t help including it on this list. OK, Five Star is a genuine beer, sporting a higher price tag than the others (about ¥225 for a 350ml can). The special thing is that it tastes like many Japanese beers did back in the ’70s. It has a rich “old timey” feel, with a good stiff belt of hop bitterness to keep the flavors in balance. This also makes the beer entirely refreshing, particularly in the finish, when the malt flavors taper off and the hop bitterness keeps singing loudly for another 10 or 20 seconds.