Originally published on metropolis.co.jp on July 2010

Dai tanaka

The photographers cluster around the finish line, their zoom lenses gleaming in the sunshine. Thousands of spectators stare engrossed at the track, the screens or their betting slips, yelling words of encouragement to the magnificent beasts hurtling along the track. The jockeys spur their thoroughbred steeds, crashing along the 1,600-meter course at a breathtaking speed as they jostle for first place. And then within a minute and a half, it’s all over.

Photos by Mark Oxley

There’s no denying that a day at Tokyo Racecourse is an exhilarating experience. But more than that, it’s also a chance to get away from the grime and grit of the city and spend a lazy day on the grass with the whole family. Opened in 1933, the course sprawls over 177 acres of immaculately manicured land in Fuchu, hemmed by trees alive with chirping birdsong.

Whether you’re there to stake your life savings or simply kick back on a blanket with a cold beer and soak in the festival atmosphere, the ¥200 entry fee offers amazing value, allowing access to most of the attractions on offer and getting you all the way to the trackside.

Come rain or shine, you’ll always get a commanding view from the 10-story covered Fujiview Grandstand—renovated in 2007—and the connected Memorial 60 Grandstand. With free seating in the open air, fancy Reserved Seats on the fifth and sixth floors, and thousands of screens inside the vast, gleaming building, you’re never far from a view of the action. Head to the trackside for a closer look, or claim a patch of grass in the center of the track for a 360-degree panorama.

Pretty much wherever you are, you’ll be able to see the mammoth Multi-screen Turf Vision. At 66.4m long and 11.2m high, this is one of the world’s largest monitors, showing the race from multiple angles as well as flashing up stats and even live video from other races around Japan.

The facilities are surprisingly child-friendly, too. In addition to the basics—a wide range of reasonably priced eateries, a gift shop and plenty of vending machines—Tokyo Racecourse also offers free horse rides and several play areas.

“I liked the horses!” said Elana, a young British girl who visited with her family as part of a daytrip organised by Eggworm and SET Japan on behalf of the Japan Racing Association (JRA). “I rode on a real horse, and also pretend ones [in the Pakapaka Café]. And I loved the bouncy castle too!”

“It’s a very good place to bring the kids,” confirmed her father, Fraser.

And if you came to bet… well, that’s perfectly easy. Tokyo Racecourse is well geared towards expats, with English-language maps, guides and betting-slip overlays available at the information counter, courtesy of the JRA.

Since betting is more or less the same the world over, seasoned pros will find all the quinellas, exactas and trifectas they’d expect. For beginners, a “How To Bet” pamphlet offers simple explanations of the jargon, along with a guide on filling out the betting slips (made super-simple with the aid of an English overlay card). Bets and payouts are handled by hundreds of automated betting machines, and best of all, a flutter can be had for as little as ¥100.

In fact, the only tricky part is choosing your equine favorite. A selection of sports newspapers and tipsheets are available, and stats flash across screens throughout the Grandstand building. But perhaps the most intuitive (and fun) method is to get up close and personal with the horses in the parade ring, where you can check out the condition of the steeds and their jockeys at a range so close you can smell them.

Whether you’re playing the ponies or just enjoying a peaceful family outing in the sunshine, a day at Tokyo Racecourse is a good bet. Pack a picnic, get your hooves on a beer, and welcome the weekend in relaxing style.