Originally published on metropolis.co.jp on September 2010
Photos by Keigo Moriyama
You don’t have to be an oyster lover to enjoy Fish House Oyster Bar. This casual eatery serves everything from vegetable bagna cauda to cheese platter to regional fare like San Daniele prosciutto and New England clam chowder. The vibe is friendly, the service prompt, and the location, just a couple minutes’ walk from Ebisu station, can’t be beat.
But if you are a fan of oysters, you’ll want to go as soon as possible. On any given day, a dozen varieties are sitting on ice at the raw bar—not just common types, like the Canadian Kushi or the American Kumamoto, but a full range from local waters, like the Onagawa from Miyazaki, the Toba from Mie, and the meaty Fukura from Hyogo. Prices range from ¥280-¥480 apiece.
The large selection of oysters is matched by the variety of ways to eat them. Purists will want to stick with a squirt of lemon, but you can also order your kaki baked (¥740), broiled (¥940), gently smoked (¥980), cooked in garlic (ajillo-style; ¥1,260), or served in quiche (¥840) or gratin (¥1,260). Classics include “Angels on a Horseback” (broiled with bacon and breadcrumbs; ¥940) and a version of oysters Rockefeller with spinach and garlic (¥840). The chefs also offer original dishes—baked oysters with uni butter (¥1,260), for example, or broiled oysters with nori, cream and yuzu (¥940). On weekends and holidays, Fish House opens at 3pm with a special afternoon plan: one drink, two raw oysters, two baked oysters and a “plate of the day” for just ¥1,980.
To get a sense of how passionate the staff are, just check the drinks menu—an entire section is dedicated to beverages that go well with oysters. The Black Velvet (sparkling wine and dark beer; ¥800), we’re told, is “better for the imported oyster,” while mimosas (¥800) are a good match with Japanese varieties. If you want to hedge your bets, order some dry sherry (¥800), which is said to complement both local and international oysters. The well-balanced wine list is dominated by emblematic grapes from the US and France; the house sauvignon blanc (¥4,900) is our favorite. Other drinks include several varieties of beer—Yebisu (¥600), Singha (¥740), Corona (¥800) and Hoegaarden (¥980)—and a full complement of cocktails.
Fish House’s one-room interior encourages conviviality, with slate tile floors, wood furniture and a blackboard listing daily specials. A large glass window snakes around the front, offering a fantastic view of the bustling intersection below. The helpful staff are happy to offer tips on the menu, whether that be an interesting variety of oyster or how best to pair it with wine. We’re willing to bet that no one in Tokyo knows as much about this stuff as they do.
