Originally published on metropolis.co.jp on February 2011

In light of the recent tragic events, Boat Race Heiwajima has canceled all races and closed Heiwajima Kyotei Theater until the end of March. We apologize for any inconvenience caused, and look forward to working with Metropolis in the near future. Thank you for your cooperation

It’s hard to believe, but you can enjoy a full day of thrills, spills and excitement for only ¥100 right here in Tokyo. Yes, that’s all it costs to enter Heiwajima Boat Race Stadium, located just a short bus ride from Omori station on the Keihin-Tohoku line. With a history spanning more than 50 years, the boat races (known as kyotei) feature six competitors battling it out over three adrenaline-charged laps around a 600-meter course, 12 times a day.

And perhaps the best part is, you can even recoup your entry fee—and a lot more. The betting at Heiwajima Boat Race Stadium starts as low as ¥100 per ticket, but the payoffs can be very large indeed.

Don’t worry: deciding which racer to place your money on is as easy as a game of jan-ken-pon. English-language guidebooks offer detailed explanations about the betting process, and for easy identification, the racers’ uniforms are color-coordinated with their boats’ flags—white, black, red, blue, yellow and green. Want an extra hint? Watch closely as the racers do their “start-up laps,” and you can get a sense of who might be hot that day. If you want more seasoned advice, there are a number of colorful “predictors” or “forecasters” set up in designated areas, imparting their words of wisdom to eager boat race followers for a small fee.

Part of the fun comes before the starting line is crossed. Six racers line up in waiting mode near a thundering mini-Niagara Falls until a huge clock starts ticking. Then the competitors, who must sit in their watercraft seiza-style, make a mad dash around an orange buoy and jockey for the best kick-off position. This is followed by a zooming charge for the starting line, which must be reached within one second of the clock hitting zero. Those who reach it too soon (“Flying Start”) or too late (“Late Start”) are scratched from the race. (Don’t worry, though—if you bet on any disqualified racers, your money is refunded.) You can also check the super-clear view on the massive monitor, which is almost as fun to watch as the live race.

And just who are those dashing athletes piloting their boats around the course? The racers range in age from late teens-60s, and they must undergo rigorous training at a specialist school; 10 percent of them are women. Each is responsible for the maintenance of his or her own boat—maintenance that’s crucial in determining the winner and losers. All boats have the same motors, but racers are allowed to modify the propellers to their own specifications.

Races are spaced out throughout the day, starting around 11am and ending around 5pm. There’s plenty of opportunity to enjoy Japanese comfort food during the breaks—ramen, curry rice and pork cutlets, plus soft drinks and beer. While the crowd is mainly middle-aged men during the week, families join in the fun on the weekends, which is also when guest comedians and singers perform for no extra charge.

The stadium’s viewing options are plentiful, with more than 3,000 non-reserved seats and 1,000 reserved seats in the grandstand. There are also several private viewing rooms for members, including the Royal Room, which will be made available to 30 lucky Metropolis readers on March 26 (see above right). For hardcore fans, the Heiwajima Kyotei Theater, located adjacent to the stadium, is open 360 days a year, and boat races from all over Japan are broadcast on its 250-inch screen.

So if you want to spend the day rubbing shoulders with the locals and experiencing a unique slice of local life, Heiwajima Boat Race Stadium offers an undeniably authentic taste of Japan.

1-1-1 Heiwajima, Ota-ku. Tel: 03-3768-9200. Open 9:50am (9:30am for reserved seats). www.heiwajima.gr.jp

Free shuttle bus service available between 9:30am-10:40pm (including non-race days) from Omori Kaigan or Heiwajima stations on the Keikyu line, and between 9:30am-3:30pm (race days only) from bus terminal No. 4 at Omori station on the Keihin-Tohoku line. A ¥100 bus service is available between 3:30-9:10pm (race days only) and 9:40am-9:10pm (non-race days) from Omori station. Check the race calendar on the website (Japanese only), as race days vary each month.

*We will notify winners via email. Once the number of applicants reaches capacity, the offer will be closed. Betting card subject to fees. Persons under 20 years of age prohibited from purchasing betting cards. Boat Race Heiwajima, Metropolis and other parties accept no responsibility for any accidents on the day.