Originally published on metropolis.co.jp on October 2013
As if suffering from earthquakes, typhoons and other natural phenomena wasn’t enough, the denizens of Tokyo also have to put up with supernatural occurrences in the form of folkloric creatures, gods, demons and other evil spirits that haunt the city. To get into the Halloween spirit, we hopped on our bikes and pedaled through 14 spooky sites around the city.
We started in Ikebukuro bright and early at 7am, and wrapped up over 10 hours later. We were never especially scared since we were riding in the daylight hours, but we did log 86 kilometers and burn an estimated 3,600 calories. The full itinerary is quite challenging. If you are planning to make the rounds, be sure to pack a water bottle, puncture repair kit, camera and a map to serve as backup when your smartphone battery dies.
View a Google map of the whole route
Sunshine 60
If you watched Tommy Lee Jones in the film The Emperor, you would have noticed a scene set at Sugamo Prison. That was recreated at a studio, since the actual prison grounds are where the 60-story Sunshine City complex now stands. Former Prime Minister Hideki Tojo was hanged here in 1948, and inevitably modern urban folklore has it that the place is now haunted.
3-1-1 Higashi Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku
Sougenji Temple
Nicknamed “Kappa Temple,” this location was built to appease the turtle-like aquatic goblins that are said to pull children off of bridges and drown them. The smattering of cucumbers on the altar is meant to appease the creatures who need to keep water in the bowl-like dent on their heads to survive. If you do come across one, just bow and they will do likewise—thereby killing themselves.
Akiba Jinja
Just a stone’s throw from Kappa Temple, this shrine houses Akiba Daigongen, a powerful deity associated with fire who is said to watch over the area.
3-10-7 Matsugaya, Taito-ku
Chingodo Hall
Long before David Beckham was nicknamed “Goldenballs,” Chingodo Hall on the grounds of Sensoji temple honored tanuki (Japanese raccoon dogs) who are famed for their huge kintama (literally “golden balls”). They are said to be troublemakers who use their assets as tools, weapons and makeshift disguises—only the gods know how all that works exactly.
2-3-1 Asakusa, Taito-ku
Ubaga-Ike (Old Hag’s Pond)
A legend that has been turned into a kabuki play and horror films says that back in the 7th century a woman hid a boulder in the rafters of her inn. After it squashed sleeping guests, she would rob them. It is not hard to guess what happened when her daughter accidentally stayed in the room. Mom dumped the body in this pond, where the spirit is said to linger still. Oddly enough, there is a playground just next to it today.
2-4-15 Hanakawado, Taito-ku
Ireido (Hall Of Repose)
Built to calm the souls of the unidentified victims of the Great Kanto Earthquake and the bombing of Tokyo during WWII, this Buddhist memorial hall sits in the midst of Yokoamicho Park.
2-3-25 Yokoami, Sumida-ku
Oiwa Inari Tamiya Shrine
One of Japan’s most famous ghost stories involves Lady Oiwa, who was poisoned by her husband centuries ago. Her ghost came back to haunt him and supposedly still roams the streets of Yotsuya, where this shrine is dedicated to her.
Samoncho 17, Shinjuku-ku
Masakado’s Grave
Hidden away between the office towers of Otemachi is the resting place of the body (and severed head) of Taira no Masakado (903-940), thought to be Japan’s first samurai. Subsequent attempts to relocate his remains have had catastrophic results for the construction crews. Today, a steady stream of visitors pays respects to the warlord.
1-2-1 Otemachi, Chiyoda-ku
Tokyo Tower
The ghost of a little girl has reportedly been spotted numerous times since this tourist attraction was erected in 1958.
4-2-8 Shiba Koen, Minato-ku
Yureizaka (Ghost Street)
Steep by Tokyo standards, this narrow street with a temple and graveyard could well be used in a horror movie.
Top end starts from 4-12-18 Mita, Minato-ku
Sengakuji Temple
Here you can visit the burial ground of the “47 Ronin” whose story has been turned into countless films, including the upcoming one with Keanu Reeves. A group of loyal samurai avenged their fallen leader by raiding the castle of the chief instigator and ruthlessly beheading him before turning the blades on themselves. Stop for lunch around Shinagawa station before moving on.
2-11-1 Takanawa, Minato-ku
Suzugamori Execution Grounds
This is the most remote location on the route because it was built outside the old entrance gates of Edo to avoid spiritually polluting the city. Between 1651 and 1871, 150,000 anti-government conspirators and Christians were executed here by methods including crucifixion, decapitation and burning at the stake —postholes for crosses can still be seen today.
Located on the south side of Taikyoji Temple, 2-5-6 Minami-Oi, Shinagawa-ku
Aoyama Cemetery
It doesn’t take a genius to work this one out—it’s a cemetery. There is a monument to Shibuya icon Hachiko here, but not his remains, which were stuffed and put on display at the Museum of Nature and Science.
2-32-2 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku
Sendagaya Tunnel
A double dose of paranormal activity—the Victor Studio next door is supposedly haunted with ghost voices turning up on recordings and a long-haired female ghost is reported to hang upside down from the ceiling of this tunnel (which passes under a cemetery) and fall on cars.
2-6-4 Sendagaya, Shibuya-ku
Terror Town
Take a more active approach to celebrating Halloween this year
The folks at Haunted Tokyo Tours offer a number of 2-3 hour walks through spooky spots around the city. Book early for events in late October. www.hauntedtokyotours.com
As if Tokyo street fashion weren’t odd enough, Zombiena encourages people to dress as the undead and mill about outdoors. A girls only zombie walk is scheduled for October 19 in Shinjuku, and bar and walk event for flesh eating guys and gals in will be in Roppongi October 27. www.zombiena.net
For family fun, dress your kids up and take them to the Tamagawa Halloween Festival. A costume parade for the little ones will be held on October 27, and kids can meet Sesame Street characters, October 26-27 & 31. www.tamagawa-sc.com
Fright Nights
354 CLUB
Halloween Party: Sat Oct 26, 11pm-5am. ¥2,000.
Whistle Bump After Hours: Sun Oct 27, 5-9:30am, ¥1,000 (w/1D).
Udagawa Halloween: Thu Oct 31, 8pm-late, ¥1,000 (w/1D).
30-5 Udagawacho, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03 6455 0225. Nearest stn: Shibuya. 354club.com
DOUBLE TOKYO
Metropolis “Ghost”-omatsu: Fri Oct 25, 7-11pm, ¥1,000, free (w/costume).
Friday Freaks: Fri Oct 25, 11pm-late, men ¥3,500 (w/1D), ladies ¥2,000 (w/1D), lady members free (w/1D).
Halloween Party: Thu Oct 31, 7-11pm, men ¥2,000, ladies ¥1,500. Dolcie Halloween Party: Thu Oct 31, 11pm-late, men ¥3,000 (w/1D), ladies ¥2,000 (w/1D).
1-10-11 Nishi-Azabu, Minato-ku. Tel: 03-6434-5544. Nearest stn: Nogizaka. www.doubletokyo.com
DUBLINERS
Happy Halloween Party & All Day Happy Hour: Thu Oct 31.
Shinjuku, Shibuya, Ikebukuro, Akasaka, Shinagawa locations. www.dubliners.jp
GOLD CAFÉ
Halloween Happy Hour: Daily Oct 11-31, until 9pm. Two-for-one drinks with any food purchase.
5-10-25 Roppongi, Minato-ku. Tel: 03-6447-2002. Nearest stn: Roppongi. www.tokyogoldcafe.com
PCM
Heartland Friday Gig: Fri Oct 18, 8pm, free.
Mickey Night: Fri Oct 25, 8pm, free.
PCM Halloween Party: Thu Oct 31, 8pm. One free sparkling wine w/costume.
2-7-3 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku. Tel: 03-5222-1251. Nearest stn: Tokyo. www.miyoshi-grp.com/cardinal/pcm/
PROPAGANDA
Halloween Pre-Party: Fri Oct 25, 6pm-5am. Free plus free shot (w/costume), Happy Hour until 9pm.
Halloween Party: Sat Oct 26, 7pm-5am, ¥2,000 (1D & 1shot), ¥1,500 (w/costume incl. 1D & 1 shot). Glass wine ¥500 all night (ladies); Happy Hour until 9pm (¥500 drinks); costume contest from midnight (win free drinks all night & original t-shirts).
3-14-9 Roppongi, Minato-ku. Tel: 03-3423-0988. Nearest stn. Roppongi. www.propaganda-tokyo.com
Chiles Mexican Grill
Skull Faces: Oct 26-27, 11am-1pm & Thu Oct 31, 6-8pm. Transform yourself into a Mexican skull with amazing face painting artist, ¥1,000.
Dia de Muertos (Day of the Dead): Sat Nov 2, 7-11pm. ¥3,000 special buffet (w/1D); costume contest at 9pm (win a bottle of cava wine or a round of bloody tequila shots).
1-8-24 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-6434-9693. Nearest stn: Harajuku. www.chiles-grill.com
Vanity/V2
Haunted Jail House: Fri Oct 25 10pm-late, men ¥3,500 (w/2D), ladies free.
L’il Jon: Thur Oct 31, 8pm-late, men ¥3,500 (w/2D), ladies free.
5-5-1 Roppongi, Minato-ku. Tel:03-5474-0091. Nearest stn: Roppongi. www.vanitylounge.jp
