Originally published on metropolis.co.jp on May 2011
Courtesy of Reims Yanagidate
Mayumi Burgener
Courtesy of Reims Yanagidate
In a quiet corner of Aoyama a one-minute walk from Omotesando station, a stand-alone building houses the French restaurant Reims Yanagidate. A soft-spoken, unctuous (but slightly contemptuous) garçon greets you when you push open the heavy, oversized wooden door. The premises may not be spacious, but as with other restaurants in Tokyo, it is elegant and the seating is comfortable. With no music in the background, a whisper can be heard across the table. It is so popular with Japanese diners that when we made a reservation, they told us we would have to wait two weeks for a table on the weekend.
We opted for the chef’s recommendation, and were delighted from the start. The amuse-bouche was colorful layers of rich red tomato purée, white crab meat tartare and pastel-orange carrot mousse delicately positioned in a small glass. It was thrilling for the taste buds—the luscious, creamy mousse and subtle tang of the purée created a pleasant sensation that promptly required a glass of white wine.
The first appetizer was white asparagus blanc-manger with a slice of lobster meat, lobster bisque and caviar, followed by a second, deux terrine des conger et foiegras (anago, foie gras terrine and cinnamon-flavored bread) and a large spoonful of diced tuna marinated in olive oil with chopped olive and mint. Moist and flavorful, the combination of bread, foie gras and anago balanced in perfect harmony. The third appetizer was a cocktail of oyster and cauliflower purée garnished with a deep-fried, shredded root vegetable.
A courteous waiter explained each dish as he delivered it to the table, with each arriving at a well-timed pace. Following the entrées was a perfectly cooked, lightly seasoned poêlé of white fish with lemon-flavored risotto. The combination of crispy skin, tender fish and the accompanying sauce was a delight.
When the time came for our main—a charcoal-grilled pork loin with truffle sauce, creamed potato and dandelion—the smiling waiter advised us to try the dandelion and pork together, as the bitter flavor would enhance the taste of the meat. Perfectly salted and perfectly grilled, we agreed it to be about as succulent as it gets.
Dessert was a generous portion of pecan tart with vanilla and caramel ice cream. For me, it was too big and too sweet, overbearing the flavorful ingredients I had savored until then. Only able to eat half of it, I offered it to my partner who gladly finished it all.
Reims Yanagidate strikes a good balance between classy and casual. Small children are welcome (we dined with our 18-month-old daughter), and the service, in general, was very good.
Our meals, with an additional cheese plate, came to ¥12,500 per person plus 10% service charge. It’s up to one’s own sense of value to decide whether it is expensive or not, but if you are looking for a restaurant to celebrate an anniversary or to mark a special occasion, you won’t be disappointed.
