Tokyo on the Water

April 22, 2010

Leave the landlubber life behind and enjoy a variety of nautical activities around the capital

By Metropolis

Originally published on metropolis.co.jp on April 2010

Photo by Tokyochuonet

1. Time Floats By

England has its punters, Italy has the gondolas of Venice, and in Tokyo—or, more specifically, Koto-ku—visitors to Yokojikken River Park can take a ride in a traditional Japanese-style wasen boat. Six of the seven wasen owned by the ward are kept at the park, and public boat rides are offered by members of the Wasen Tomo no Kai, a group devoted to protecting the art of piloting these Edo-era vessels. Passengers looking for a more active experience are also welcome to try steering the boats themselves—under the watchful eye of a pro, of course.

Every Wed 10am-1:45pm (Mar-Nov); every Sun 10am-1:45pm (Dec-Feb). 1-1-1 Minamisuna, Koto-ku. Tel: 03-3647-2538. Nearest stn: Toyocho, then by bus. www.meturl.com/wasen

江東区広報広聴課

2. History Lessons

History and architecture buffs alike will find plenty to chew on during the boat trips organized by the Consortium of Rediscovery of Edo-Tokyo Tourism Walk. Tours depart from Tokiwa-bashi, said to be one of the oldest stone bridges in Tokyo, and then proceed on past the ruins of Edo castle and other famous landmarks like the stone marker at Ikkoku-bashi, used during the Edo period as a way for parents searching for lost children to leave messages. The tour then continues under Nihombashi, once the capital’s most iconic bridge, and one that’s still used as the “zero-point” for measuring all distances from Tokyo. The hour-long tours cost ¥2,500 and depart several times a day (see website for details), but capacity is limited to ten people per boat, so reserve early. Note that tours are only available in Japanese.

Departs from Tokiwa-bashi Bousai Funatsukiba-mae. Nearest stn: Mitsukoshimae, exit B1. Tel: 03-3668-0700. www.edo-tokyo.info/ship/course_01.html

(C)松本零土・東京観光汽船株式会社

3. The (Retro) Future

Designed by well known anime and manga creator Reiji Matsumoto (Space Battleship Yamato, Galaxy Express 999), the Himiko is like a vision of the future as it appeared in 1973. This sleek vessel is operated by Tokyo Cruise, and serves the rather humdrum purpose of ferrying tourists from Asakusa to Odaiba and Toyosu (¥1,520 and ¥1,060, respectively). At night, it transforms into a floating bar (see p37), and can also be rented out for private parties. Obscure trivia: the name comes from a shaman queen who some historians believe ruled over the Yamataikoku kingdom in ancient Japan.

Departs from Asakusa: 1-1-1 Hanakawado, Taito-ku. Nearest stn: Asakusa; Odaiba Seaside Park: 1-4-1 Daiba, Minato-ku. Nearest stn: Odaiba Seaside Park (Yurikamome line) or Tokyo Teleport (Rinkai line); Toyosu: 2-4-9 Toyosu, Koto-ku. Nearest stn: Toyosu. Tel: 0120-977311. Check website for current timetable. www.suijobus.co.jp

Fukagawa Yoshinoya

4. Sinking Lines

If you’re like us, you probably assumed that fishing in the Tokyo area was mainly limited to those oyaji who camp out on the banks of the Tama River. But with the help of outfits like Team Yoshinoya, it’s possible to get a real, high-seas fishing experience without straying far from Tokyo Bay. Group trips depart twice a day, with prices ranging from ¥7,500-¥9,500 (discounts for women and children); the daytrips run from 7am-4pm, while night excursions depart at 5pm and return around 10pm. Private outings for up to ten people can also be arranged at any time (from ¥8,500 per person). Yoshinoya provides fishing poles, bait and other equipment upon request.

6-12-7 Kiba, Koto-ku. Tel: 03-3644-3562. Nearest stn: Kiba. www.team-yoshinoya.com

Photo by Atsushi Maruta

5. Industrial Chic

Snaking along the coastline from Tokyo’s Ota-ku down through Kawasaki and into Yokohama, the Keihin Industrial Zone is ground zero for Kanto’s kojo-moe—fanboys (and -girls) in love with manufacturing facilities. Mind you, security restrictions make it tough to get a decent look. If you’re itching for a peek—especially at night, when the teeming assortment of factories and warehouses is lit up, to dazzling effect—try to snag a place on one of the popular evening boat trips around the area. The aptly titled Jungle Cruise (¥4,500) ventures down the zone’s canals, while the Adventure Cruise (¥4,800) heads out into Negishi Bay for the widescreen view. Departure times vary, and be warned that trips sell out well in advance—these factory geeks are an eager bunch.

Jungle Cruise departs from Pier Aka Renga; Adventure Cruise departs from Pier Zonohana. Tel: 045-290-8377. Nearest stn: Nihon-Odori. www.reservedcruise.com/fact

6. Green Scene

Aspiring eco-warriors might not feel that a bustling metropolis like Tokyo can provide much, especially in the city center. But one NPO is trying to spark interest in the health of the city’s waterways. Enjoy Eco School’s tours are operated using specially designed exhaust-free electric boats to cause minimal impact to the environment. See the turtles, wild birds and other aquatic animals that inhabit the area, and learn about the boats that ply the rivers collecting garbage. Different tours explore the Kanda-Nihombashi, Onagi River and Tennozu areas in both half- and full-day trips. Prices, times and departure locations vary, so check the website for details. Part of the participation cost goes toward supporting the organization’s monthly riverside cleanup gatherings.

NPO Enjoy Eco School. Tel: 03-5547-8778. Reservations: www.enjoy-eco.or.jp/eco-tour-index.html

7. Naval Maneuvers

You don’t have to be a military nerd to appreciate the spectacle of Yokosuka Bay, where US Navy vessels are moored alongside boats belonging to the Japanese Maritime Self-Defense Force. Local operator Tryangle runs 45-minute cruises around the harbor, allowing visitors to appreciate just how awesome those American ships are in comparison to their weedy Japanese cousins. Time your visit right, and you might get to see an Aegis-class destroyer or the USS George Washington aircraft carrier. Cruises cost ¥1,200 for adults and ¥600 for junior high students.

Departs daily 11am, noon, 1pm & 2pm. 2-1-12 Honcho, Yokosuka-shi, Kanagawa. Tel: 045-825-7144. Nearest stn: Shioiri (Keihin line). www.sarusima.com/naval-port

8. Swans & Break-Ups

A lush expanse of greenery centered around a long, narrow pond, Inokashira Park must be one of the most idyllic spots in all of Tokyo. It might not be the best place to take a date, though: popular legend tells that couples who enjoy a romantic tryst on the waters of the pond can expect to break up shortly afterwards. That’s thanks to the meddling of Benzaiten, the jealous goddess enshrined in the park’s temple, who doesn’t take kindly to lovebirds infringing on her turf. If you’re willing to take a chance, rowboats can be rented for ¥600 per hour, while pedal boats cost ¥600 for 30 minutes (¥700 for those disarmingly cute swan-shaped ones). Apparently the curse can be dodged if you go and pay your respects to Benzaiten at her temple first—it’s in the far west corner of the pond.

1-18-31 Gotenyama, Musashino-shi. Rentals available daily 9am-5pm. Tel: 0422-44-3796. Nearest stn: Kichijoji or Inokashira-Koen.

Photo by James Hadfield

9. The Idle Life

Established in 1918, the Tokyo Suijyo Club gave city residents their first taste of the joys of rowboats, operating on a 600m stretch of canal that was illuminated at night. When the club fell on hard times, its owners decided to open a waterside café and restaurant serving up Italian-style grub, and the facility has been flourishing ever since. Fortunately, the rowing hasn’t been completely sidelined: if you want to work off your lunch, you can rent a boat for ¥600 for 30 minutes. And yes, food and drink are allowed onboard.

Boat rentals daily 11:30am-4pm. Café & Bar: Mon-Sat 11:30am-11pm, Sun & hols 11:30am-9:30pm. Restaurant: Open Mon-Sat 11:30am-2pm (Sat until 2:30pm) and 5:30-11pm, Sun & hols 11:30am-2:30pm and 5:30-9:30pm. Tel: 03-3260-8068. Nearest stn: Iidabashi. http://canalcafe.jp