Originally published on metropolis.co.jp on July 2009
This documentary looks into a time of upheaval in the sport of surfing before it was even considered a sport, and its questionable transformation from laidback Hawaiian pastime to multi-billion-dollar global business. According to the movie, the catalyst was four suicidal dudes from Australia and South Africa who invaded Oahu’s north shore in the ’70s. Able but arrogant (“The aloha spirit is dead!”), these rebels’ boasting led to beatings and even death contracts. The surfing footage is all on ’70s-era Super 8 film, so don’t expect Riding Giants here. The rest is mostly the four now-elderly talking heads.