Originally published on metropolis.co.jp on April 2011

Photos courtesy of Craftheads

It’s taken quite a bit of willful negligence to pass by the estimable Craftheads in Shibuya, despite the plethora of reviews and even a word-of-mouth. It has everything you could possibly want in a craft beer bar—a selection of imports and local-brewed beers, a rotation of taps and a welcoming interior (wood is good). The glasses are slightly smaller and pricier than other well-known beer venues, costing from ¥800 for 200ml, and starting at ¥1,000 for 300-350ml. The smaller sizes mean you can sample a greater variety with less damage on your liver—despite the greater damage to your wallet.

The beer can only be described as holy nectar. The Craftheads themselves can be, by turns, surprising, playful, or standard—think an entire day of taps devoted to Stone Brewing.

My first visit had high and low notes. The lemongrass ale was not-too-cloyingly sweet and quickly proved a favorite with the ladies. The Pizza Port spiced double bock was rather disappointing, however. Instead of an olfactory feast equivalent to a clove-aromatic pumpkin pie, we got a thin-bodied, surprisingly watery brew with a bitter top. We finished up with a Pizza Port Antwerp Belgian, also thin and insipid for my taste. Perhaps my palate had been blown out by the deliciously hoppy and slightly bitter finish of the Shigakogen House IPA.

Befuddled by our evident enthusiasm on our second visit when we saw Bear Republic’s Mach 10 on the board, the bartender wended over to chat beer and offer recommendations. The Republic’s IPA had a thicker body and sweetness that nicely balanced its hoppiness. I was let down by the Scottish Ale (Highway 78) brewed by the heavyweight trio of Stone, Greenflash, and Pizza Port, though that’s a style of beer I have yet to appreciate. The Maui Big Swell IPA was tasty, though not in a knock-your-socks-off way. The House IPA—a definite winner.

Proprietor Koji Nomura’s first love was bourbon, so there’s a good selection if your proclivities lean that way (¥800-¥1,200), and an appetizing menu of classic beer belly-fortifying snacks (pizza, burgers, etc.) are on offer—with a slightly upscale twist.

If you’re feeling fey, pricier bottles are in the back of the menu from brewers such as Mikkeller, Southern Tier, and Lost Abbey, as well as shirts and books to tempt drunken impulses. But be careful of touching the merchandise—I saw the bartender chastise an idler who started leafing through a book. With tweets like “Friday!! I’m not gonna give you the list of our Fabulous Beer cause you already know,” there is a certain level of intentional obscurity going on. But with beers that good, it’s worth becoming an aficionado.