Garden Party

Garden Party

Find some little-known green spots in central Tokyo

By

Originally published on metropolis.co.jp on September 2009

Genteel Kyoto may claim the monopoly on traditional gardens, but don’t count out the capital just yet. Aside from favorite haunts like Hamarikyu and Koshikawa Korakuen, Tokyo boasts a surprising number of secret Edens in its built-up backstreets. For a Zen-like experience away from the crowds, check out the following gems that dot the city.

KIYOSUMI GARDEN

Photo by Mandy Bartok

Photo by Mandy Bartok


Tucked away just south of the working-class Ryogoku neighborhood and a stone’s throw from the Sumida River, this traditional garden attracts a multitude of waterfowl throughout the year. Tread lightly over the many stepping stones to the century-old teahouse on the central pond’s edge, where you can indulge in matcha and sweets while scoping out the activities of herons, egrets and seasonal songbirds. In spring, the adjacent grassy field explodes in pink as the garden’s two dozen cherry trees blossom.
3-3-9 Kiyosumi, Koto-ku. Tel: 03-3641-5892. Open daily 9am-5pm, ¥150. Nearest stn: Kiyosumi-Shirakawa.

DEMBO-IN GARDEN

Photo by Mandy Bartok

Photo by Mandy Bartok


Shoppers strolling the alleys of Asakusa can, with a little legwork, enjoy an afternoon’s respite in this 300-year-old private park. Concealed behind the high walls of the Dembo-in monastery, the garden is officially closed to visitors for most of the year. Ask nicely at the office beside Sensoji’s five-story pagoda, however, and chances are you’ll get a ticket in and have the place to yourself. Relax by the central pond, landscaped in the shape of the kanji for “heart,” and soak up the nearby pagoda’s reflections on the crystal-clear surface. In spring, the blooming wisteria makes for a magical visit.
2-3-1 Asakusa, Taito-ku. Tel: 03-3842-0181. Open daily 10am-3pm, admission free but by permission only. Nearest stn: Asakusa.

HOTEL NEW OTANI GARDEN

You don’t have to be a guest at the swank Hotel New Otani to revel in the 10-acre oasis the property has nurtured in the middle of downtown Tokyo. Originally the private garden of a 17th century daimyo, this prime piece of real estate currently entertains hotel guests and salarymen on lunch breaks from the nearby skyscrapers. The bright hues of maples and ginkgos in late autumn provide prime foliage viewing minus the masses, while waterfalls, ponds and a manicured stone garden round out the peaceful scene.
4-1 Kioi-cho, Chiyoda-ku. Tel: 03-3265-1111.Open daily 6am-10pm, admission free. Nearest stn: Akasaka-Mitsuke or Nagatacho.

TOSHOGU PEONY GARDEN

Photo by Mandy Bartok

Photo by Mandy Bartok


Blink and you miss your chance to wander among winter’s best blooms. This small garden near Ueno Toshogu Shrine only opens its gates in January and February, brightening up the gloom of the season with a creative showcase of winter peonies. Woven straw huts and delicate paper umbrellas protect the petals from the elements, though the occasional dusting of snow next to the fiery flowers brings nature photographers out in force.
9-88 Ueno-Koen, Taito-ku. Tel: 03-3822-3575. Open daily 9:30am-4:30pm (Jan/Feb only), ¥600. Nearest stn: Ueno.

JINDAI BOTANICAL GARDEN

Photo by Mandy Bartok

Photo by Mandy Bartok


Once a nursery that supplied trees to line Tokyo’s city streets, this sprawling oasis near Kichijoji boasts 4,500 different species of plants. There’s something in bloom every month of the year, but the real draw are the seasonal roses. During the Autumn Rose Festa held every October, visitors can enjoy snacks and entertainment on the garden café’s outdoor patio or stay late to see the flowers illuminated after dark. Amateur green thumbs have the option of purchasing select plants on their way to the aquatic garden, which sits down the hill in front of Tokyo’s second-oldest temple.
5-31-10 Jindaiji-Motomachi, Chofu-shi. Tel: 0424-83-2300. Open daily 9:30am-4pm, ¥500. Nearest stn: Mitaka (Chuo line) or Chofu (Keio line), then take a bus to Jindai Shokubutsu Koenmae.

MUKOJIMA-HYAKKAEN GARDEN

Tap into your creative muse on a visit to this neighborhood garden in northeastern Tokyo. Literary references abound, from famous nature-themed haiku stenciled on stone stelae to carefully tended displays of plants mentioned in great masterpieces of prose. Come in the early spring, when the garden’s central corridor is awash with wine-hued petals from over 360 plum trees, and you may find yourself inspired to pen your own ode to the natural world.
3-18-3 Higashi-Mukojima, Sumida-ku. Tel: 03-3611-8705. Open daily 9am-5pm, ¥150. Nearest stn: Higashi-Mukojima (Tobu Isesaki line).