Island Eats

Island Eats

Throw down some good grinds at Tokyo’s best Hawaiian restaurants

By

Originally published on metropolis.co.jp on September 2013

Japanese and Hawaiians share more than just an island heritage—they’re also united by a love of eating and a distinctive culinary heritage. Tokyo diners can sample the best of Hawaiian cuisine at these restaurants; the only thing missing is the lu’au.

Ogo Ono-loa Hawaii

Considered by many expats to be the most authentic island restaurant in Tokyo, Ogo Ono-loa Hawaii offers huli-huli (rotisserrie) chicken, lomi salmon (diced with tomato and veggies) and kalua (slow cooked) pig. The teriyaki ahi poke (cubed and seasoned raw fish)—one of five poke dishes on the menu—took top prize at the 2007 Hawaii Island Festival. Ogo Ono-loa Hawaii’s mix combo lunch, which includes a choice of mains and sides served in a nifty four-section wooden dish, is supremely filling and satisfying (¥1,100-¥1,200). The 6:30-7:30pm happy hour features ¥500 PuPus and drinks.
5F, 5-1-4 Akasaka, Minato-ku. Tel: 03-3585-5337. Open Mon-Fri 11:30am-2pm & 6:30pm-11:30pm, Sat-Sun 6:30pm-11:30pm. Nearest stn: Akasaka.

Roy’s Tokyo Bar & Grill

Hawaii’s most famous chef, Roy Yamaguchi, made a name for himself in the ’90s with an inventive, upscale take on island cuisine. His focus on local ingredients and Asian seasonings rode the wave of fusion cooking and anticipated the locavore movement that’s now sweeping Honolulu and beyond. Yamaguchi operates more than 30 restaurants around the world. Roy’s Tokyo Bar & Grill, his sleek Roppongi Hills location, recently celebrated its 10th anniversary. Lunch from ¥1,500, dinner from ¥3,800—and don’t forget holiday brunch.
Roppongi Hills West Walk 5F, 6-10-1 Roppongi, Minato-ku. Open daily 11am-4pm & 5-11:30pm. Tel: 03-5474-8181. Nearest stn: Roppongi.

Manoa Aloha Table

To get an idea of how passionate the Japanese have become about Hawaiian food, consider the success of the Aloha Table chain, which has expanded into more than a dozen locations here and abroad. The restaurants are notable for their casual yet eye-catching interiors, can’t-miss locations (Daikanyama, Nakameguro, Ikebukuro) and faithful renditions of popular island fare. At the Sakuragicho branch near the Yokohama waterfront, diners can sit on the breezy terrace and wash down their garlic shrimp (¥880) and tuna rice bowls (¥980) with tropical cocktails (from ¥730) and beers from Kona Brewing Co (¥830).
1F Colette Mare, 1-1-7 Sakuragicho, Naka-ku. Tel 045-664-7110. Open daily 11am-11pm. Nearest stn: Sakuragicho. http://manoa.alohatable.com

Eggs & Things

The original Honolulu branch of Eggs & Things, established in 1974, has long been a favorite of Japanese tourists—as evidenced by the crowds that gather outside the restaurant on Saratoga Rd. each day. Now, the frenzy has made its way to Japan in the form of three locations in Kanto. At the Yokohama branch, the customers begin lining up a full hour before the 9am opening time—and the queues only get longer as the day wears on. The crowds come for fruit-and-nut pancakes piled high with whipped cream, gooey omelets and island-inflected dishes like scrambled eggs with spam, all for around ¥1,000.
Harajuku: 4-30-2 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku; Yokohama: Star Hotel, 11 Yamashita-cho, Naka-ku; Enoshima: 2-17-22 Katase-Kaigan, Fujisawa, Kanagawa. See www.eggsnthingsjapan.com for details.

Café Kaila

Another Honolulu pancake house that’s won an avid following among the Japanese, Café Kaila distinguishes itself by virtue of its location in Omotesando’s upscale Gyre complex. The specialty of the house is the “Kaila original pancake” (¥2,000), which includes a trio of hotcakes topped with fresh strawberries, blueberries and banana; add caramelized apple for ¥300 extra. If you want to try the dish, though, you’d better show up early: orders are limited to 300 a day, and the restaurant is always mobbed. Café Kaila also serves French toast, waffles, sandwiches and 100 percent Kona coffee.
B1 Gyre, 5-10-1 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-6427-1310. Open Mon-Fri 9am-8pm, Sat-Sun & hols 8am-8pm. Nearest stn: Meijijingumae or Omotesando. www.cafe-kaila.com

L&L Hawaiian Dining Café

With cheery white walls, an open-air layout and a location in the heart of Shibuya, L&L Hawaiian Dining Cafe recreates the casual spirit of Hawaii’s ubiquitous plate-lunch cafeterias. Which is no surprise: the shop is part of an Oahu-based chain that operates more than 175 franchises in the US. Island-style bentos (from ¥820) feature mains such as BBQ chicken and fried mahi mahi, served with white rice and macaroni salad. Everything’s available a la carte, so you can mix and match to create your own personal lunch. Open late-night on weekends.
36-6 Udagawacho, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-3463-0141. Open Sun-Thu 11am-11pm, Fri-Sat 11am-3am. Nearest stn: Shibuya. www.platelunch.co.jp