Originally published on metropolis.co.jp on February 2011

When Metropolis reviews Italian establishments, we usually end up harping on about authenticity. So let’s get a few things about Lo Spazio out of the way first. There’s no plump padrone flitting between tables to dispense kisses and make sure everyone is having a good time. There are no checked tablecloths. We didn’t hear Pavarotti or the theme from Cinema Paradiso once in the course of the evening.

These are all probably good things, too. With its tiled floors, functional furniture, gleaming espresso machine and lingering air of dowdiness, Lo Spazio is a dead ringer for the kind of bar you could find in almost any neighborhood in Italy. What’s impressive is that it’s managed to emulate not only the look but also the daily routine of those places: just head there on a weekday evening and watch the regular customers file in to stand at the bar, smoke, talk shop and sink espressos.

Speaking of espressos, they take their coffee very seriously here, which is exactly as it should be. The cornucopia of caffeine jolts on offer runs from a very good espresso (¥370) to a two-shot caffe shakerato (¥600) that’s probably best saved for the summer months. The wines start at ¥2,800, and we order up a good bottle of 2009 Pecorino Terre di Chieti Palio that’s crisp with an enticing citrus aroma (¥3,390). They only have Heineken on draft (¥580), sadly, but you can also get bottles of Nastro Azzurro (¥680).

The food is generally impressive: our penne all’arrabbiata (¥1,000) and parmigiano reggiano risotto (¥1,200) were both nicely al dente, although the peperoncino broccoli (¥680) was a little overdone. Oh, and leave room for dessert—the panna cotta and tiramisu were both mighty fine (¥500).